Peru Travel Guide: Celebrating Criollo Music & Dance

The Peruvian spring (fall/autumn in the Northern Hemisphere) sees a number of important celebrations of the country’s interesting blend of cultural heritage.

Peruvians have always been proud of their unique cultural fusion – the merging of Hispanic with traditional Andean societies, along with a healthy dose of Afro-Caribbean influence as well as the countless indigenous communities of the selva, the deep Amazon jungle.

The most famous outcome of this cultural melting pot has been Peruvian criollo cuisine, a treat for anyone enjoying a Peru travel experience. But the fusion is expressed in many other forms, in particular the country’s rich music and dance traditions, which come under the spotlight during this time of year, as the Peruvian winter fades into the long, sultry summer.

A major event is la Dia de la Cancion Criolla, or the Day of the Creole Song, a major national event on 31 October that is most prominent in the music loving coastal towns and cities.

Much of this music was influenced by the descendants of African slaves, and is characterized by lively, fast rhythms and fun, flirtatious dancing. Popular instruments are the guitar and the cajón, a rectangular wooden box that is played as a percussion instrument by fast-handed drummers with perfect timing.

The Day of the Creole Song is a major celebration right along Peru’s central coast but is less prominent in highland or jungle communities, where other forms of indigenous music are more popular.

For the best celebrations, head to Lima, Trujillo, Ica or Chiclayo. Celebrations tend to be focused around the towns’ central Plaza de Armas, and the numerous bars and peñas nearby, although in Lima, some of the best events are to be found in the southern districts of Surco and Barranco.

The event makes for great memories during Peru vacations, but come prepared for loud, boisterous and raucous celebrations, especially as the sun goes down and the proceedings become more alcohol fuelled. For the most authentic experiences, go with some Peruvian friends.

A couple of weeks after the Day of the Creole Song festival and another big criollo event comes to Peru, the Festival de Danzas Negras, in the town of Chincha, just south of Lima.

Playing the Canjon in Chincha, Peru. Photograph: Creative Commons

Chincha, in particular the neighborhood of El Carmen, is home to one of Peru’s most distinct and vibrant Afro Peruano communities. Mostly descended from slaves brought from Africa to work on coastal cotton plantations, the community of El Carmen has retained its rich identity, which is celebrated every November with a major dance festival, attracting visitors from across the country, especially Lima folk looking for a weekend break on the coast.

The festival usually occurs over the first weekend of November. It’s easy to get to Chincha and El Carmen by bus from Lima, a journey that takes around two hours. Hotels in the area are likely to get booked up fairly quickly so either make reservations ahead or arrive early to get a decent room.