With the trains fired up and shuttling visitors back into the mountains and up to Machu Picchu, things are looking normal again in the Cusco region. The damage from this year’s unusually wet rainy season was a big disappointment to travelers in February and March and a disaster for the small villages and business in the area. However, poco a poco, things are turning around with the reopening of the trains, and smiling faces are filling the streets of this historic city.

Machu Picchu and Cusco Reopen Again

Cusco, which had turned into a virtual ghost-town with the closing of Machu Picchu, has been ferrying visitors back and forth from the ruins in almost-normal fashion and memories of the harsh rainstorms just a few months back are fading from people’s minds.
In fact, the weather has been so stunning this month, it is hard to believe the hard rains ever came at all. These days, bright sunshine and clear blue skies are accompanying most tourists on their journey to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.

“We couldn’t have asked for better weather on our visit to Machu Picchu. Exploring the ruins was such an experience, I feel so fortunate to have visited such an amazing place.” one Peru For Less traveler told me last week.

With the re-opening of Machu Picchu, the famous Inca Trail trekking route has also once again been bearing hikers’ footsteps. Crossing “Dead Woman’s Pass” and snaking through the ruins of Intipata, hikers are passing through the Sun Gate to descend upon Machu Picchu from above, with a sense of accomplishment lightening their steps.

For now, trains are busy running from a small outpost called Piscacucho, also known as Kilometer 82, to Aguas Calientes, the small town just below Machu Picchu. While at the beginning of April the train companies were running five trains a day, the number has quickly jumped to 14 between Peru Rail and Inca Rail, allowing far more flexibility and access to the ruins.

“Things are looking better and better and we are hoping to have trains running the normal route from Ollantaytambo in July. Clients are coming back from Machu Picchu feeling really good about their trip.” said Peru For Less’ Cusco Operations Manager, Caitlin Ham.  “Having the trains eventually running from Ollantaytambo will cut out some of the longer bus rides that visitors are currently taking.”

Regardless of the journey, the prize at the end is still the same. Machu Picchu is a remarkable destination that is once again welcoming visitors through its majestic gates and on the journey of a lifetime.

Friday night procession in the main square.

Though the celebration had lasted all week, standing amidst the people, the crowds showed no signs of weariness. In fact, many were already celebrating the grand finale with morning ice creams, popcorn, and cervezas. Without introduction, the people ahead of us suddenly scattered to allow a beaming cowboy break through towing a wild bull behind him. Amongst gleeful screams, we tried desperately to catch glimpses and take photos of this famous bull pull. Within seconds they’d flown by us and we were left to wait for more.

In total, I saw three Easter Bulls run wildly past, though there may have been more. Delighted with the stunning performances I’d witnessed on Friday, I couldn’t wait to see what else Saturday had in store for the thousands of people who traveled to Ayacucho to celebrate the Christian Holy Week. All day Friday, local artists had labored on the streets of the Plaza de Armas, creating stunning murals out of colored sand. Their hard work was short lived as the evening’s touching procession, in stunning candlelit darkness, marched the Señor del Santo Sepulcro around the plaza leaving behind dusty remnants of the beautiful art sacrificed in the name of religious fervor.

I’ve spent a good deal of time in Ayacucho, and I can honestly say that it is one of my favorite destinations. It is a mixture of tranquility and activity and Semana Santa was no exception. On Saturday afternoon, to sneak away from the crowded city center, my friends and I took a short combi ride to the Wari ruins, just 30km from Ayacucho. Exploring these beautiful ruins and the quiet paths linking them riddled with cacti and fresh tuna fruit, you’d never know of the fiesta taking place just a short distance away. Not wanting to miss the evening celebrations, I was back in Ayacucho in the late afternoon, and after a reviving dinner we re-joined the crowds to enjoy the music and dancing that would last all night. Like huge statues made of construx, scattered around the square were reed towers that erupted in exciting fireworks displays throughout the night. Big brass bands played around the Plaza so that when one band grew tired of playing cumbia and samba we moved on to another corner of the square where a new band was blasting horns, guitar and drum beats into the night.

A mural made out of sand created on the streets of Ayacucho.

The excitement and fervor kept the crowd moving and though I’d taken a short nap, when my friends woke me to rejoin the festivities, there was an even bigger crowd then when I’d left just an hour ago, anxiously awaiting the famous procession which wouldn’t start until 5:30 in the morning. Tired faces waited patiently near the Cathedral, people slept on the sidewalks and small children played on the street beside their parents. The final fireworks tower erupted in announcement of what we’d all been waiting for. Tired eyes fixed on the Cathedral as the famous brilliantly lit pyramid seemed to float out of the doors of the Cathedral supported by the hands of 200 people and began to circle the Plaza in what is known as the Resurrection Mass. It was truly a remarkable finale to this exciting celebration that will ring forever in my mind as an extraordinary Peruvian cultural experience.

Dancers at the Qoyllur Rit’i Festival, Peru

The sacred mountain known as Apu Ausangate stands taller than its neighbors and is one of the highest mountains in Peru, at an impressive 20,940ft (6,372m). Normally a place of natural calm and serenity, during Qoyllur Rit’i this mountain pass literally comes to life as more than 10,000 pilgrims gather in a meadow below surrounding summits, in full view of the impressive “Star of the Snow.” Here they worship the sun, Christian icons and the Andean divinities by dancing in colorful traditional dress day and night. The grounds are riddled with tents housing local Quechua families, men, women and children, brimming with excitement of the celebrations.

It’s possible to partitipate in the Qoyllur Rit’i festival during a Peru vacation.

From Cusco, you’ll need three days to experience this amazing cultural opportunity. Heading from Cusco you’ll arrive to a small Andean pueblo, Mahuayani before beginning a three hour trek to the Señor de Qoyllur Rit’i sanctuary to join the massive array of tents and people. Setting up camp here, you can spend the rest of the day and evening enjoying the regional dance performances and festivities long into the night.

There will be more celebrations and activities in the morning and you will also be able to visit the “Alacitas” market, a curious exhibition of miniatures such as cars, houses, and herds, all of which are blessed by the festival divinity. After lunch at the campsite, you can trek the rest of the afternoon to the small Andean village of Yanacancha, where pilgrims rest before continuing on a spectacular night-trek to Tayankani. Upon arrival you’ll catch the awe-inspiring sun-rise ceremony, designed to honor the sun with ancient Inca rituals. Afterwards you’ll descend towards Tayankani for the local chapel service to receive the blessing of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit’i. After lunch, you’ll descend to Ocongate for the journey back to Cusco.

This year, the Qoyllur Rit’i event on May 31. Due to the high-altitudes and long treks, it is only recommended to people who are in good physical condition.

Brazil Travel Guide: Exploring the Wild Lands of the Pantanal

Humans are few and far between in the Pantanal giving it a feel of almost absolute isolation, although the abundance of wildlife here more than makes up for the lack of people. Species found elsewhere in the world exist here, but in astonishingly oversized versions, such as the giant river otter (1.8 meters long), or the marsh deer (1.2 meters high).

Despite this, continuous flooding has made farming impossible, thus protecting its unique natural heritage. The waters have also made this a hugely important feeding ground for birds and fish, but the area is also home to large populations of land animals, such as the jaguar, ocelots, wolves, capuchins, anteaters and armadillos. The list is almost endless.

Experiencing the area is possible through a variety of exciting adventures and Pantanal tours. A boat ride along the Mutum River will offer fantastic sightings of the enormous and friendly otters, stingrays and fish. Horseback riding through the lowlands offers an extra advantage because you have access to routes where the water is too high for motorized vehicles but too low for boats. The rolling mountains, fields and pasturelands amidst verdant flora and beautiful and diverse fauna can all be explored on guided treks.

Lying mostly within the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil offers the best access to these remarkable wetlands. You will need to fly to Ciuaba or Campo Grande with either direct flight from Brasilia or connecting flights from Rio and Sao Paulo. Independent travel is not recommended because of limited access. The region is known for its fazendas, or cattle stations, which accommodate small numbers of guests at a time for an unforgettable cultural experience.

Now is the time to start planning your Pantanal vacation, with the wet season (November to March) coming to an end. The region is essentially a flood basin and during the dry season the water level recedes and fresh green grasses emerge, making travel over land easier and more comfortable. When making your Brazil travel plans, give yourself at least four days here for the full Pantanal experience. You won’t regret giving this underexplored nucleus of life a look; you never know when your next opportunity to track a jaguar will be.

Visitors enjoying Argentina vacations are often lured to Mendoza for its promises of delicious wines in the lazy atmosphere of the rolling Andean foothills. This Argentina capital of wine rises to the expectations of its guests and leaving Mendoza behind to continue your journey becomes more and more difficult as you adapt to the easy-going pace of this comfy city. With a lively fun population that seems to find ways to enjoy life day and night, some of the best wines in the world produced right there in the region, and the stunning backdrop of the tallest peaks in the Andes looming in the distance, it is easy to understand why.

One of Mendoza's Many Vinyards, Argentina

Mendoza is the gateway to Argentina wine country and host of the world famous Vendimia Wine Festival each March. The fertile land produces more than two-thirds of Argentinean wine, almost one billion liters a year. Whether you are a wine expert, a hobbyist or just enjoy the lovely environment of the wine industry and culture, Mendoza will not disappoint.

There are a wide range of daytime possibilities in the Mendoza Province. Bike tours are a great way to see the surrounding countryside while touring and tasting the rich wines that are produced. Looking out beyond the grape vines at the vineyards the tallest mountain in the western hemisphere will grabs your attention. Snow-capped Aconcagua stands powerfully in the distance at a remarkable height of almost 23,000 ft (6,962 m) and the trekking possibilities are enough to satisfy even the most hard-core mountaineer.

When the sun sets across the arid valley, Mendoza really comes alive with a wide array of delicious restaurant options and a hot nightlife ranging from classy to hippie. The evidence of why people don’t want to leave Mendoza is obvious. It’s the coolest city in Argentina!

Traveling to Mendoza is easy as the city is served by several flights and buses on a daily basis. Aerolineas flies several times daily to Mendoza andLan Chile offers flights to Santiago. From the airport you can take a short taxi or shuttle bus to the city center.

To travel there overland, buses are your best option and being a major hub, you’ll find there is access from almost anywhere in the country. There is also great public transportation to many of the sites in and around the region. If you are interested in hopping the Chilean border, Mendoza is a good jumping off point as many bus companies travel the seven hours to Santiago, Viña del Mar, and Valparaiso each day. International and domestic departures depart from the same main terminal on Av. Gobernador Videla and Av. Acceso Este.

Check out Argentina For Less’ range of Argentina Wine Tours for more travel ideas.

With Brazil’s soaring economy and selection as the host for the 2016 Summer Olympics, Rio was in good spirits for the preparation of this year’s Carnival, which for many visitors is the defining Brazil travel experience.

Flamboyant scenes from the streets of Rio during Carnival

Things kicked off on Saturday 13 February and despite the crippling heat making it the hottest Carnival in five decades, dancers and performers rocked the streets sporting colorful flamboyant costumes sprouting feathers from their backs and sometimes even reptiles from their heads.

During this wildly expressive event, everyone is encouraged to flaunt it, any way you want, the more color the better. There are no ridiculous costumes in Rio during carnival. No matter how outlandish someone is dressed, someone else has found a way to stretch the limit even further.

Amidst the unprecedented heat wave but refreshingly cool nights, the city estimates that a total of 2.5 million people took to the streets to let loose in typical Carnival fashion.  The usual crowd of Hollywood and MTV stars made appearances, including Beyonce, Madonna, Hugh Jackman, Paris Hilton, and Alicia Keys.

The mayor took efforts to reduce the usual problems of disorder and sanitation by quadrupling the number of public toilets available and restricting certain activities on the two main Rio beaches, Ipanema and Copacabana. In general the attempts at a more safe and secure Carnival, especially with mounting pressure from Rio’s coming Olympic bid, were successful.

This year’s champion of the Rio Carnival parades competition was the Unidos da Tijuca samba group who took home the title for the first time in more than seven decades. The theme of their performance was “It’s a Secret,” and they made references to some of the great mysteries of the world including the Bermuda Triangle, ancient lost civilizations and Area 51.

Over 3,600 people played a part in the presentation which included a huge ski ramp that was climbed by a team of Spidermen and skied down by a team of Batmen.  They even paid homage to Michael Jackson at one point. Groups spend millions of dollars putting together their extravagant shows and are judged in ten different categories before a winner is selected.

The streets may have quieted down for a while, but with Brazil’s continued growth as a popular South America travel destination, the quiet won’t last long. Soon Samba schools will begin pooling creative ideas for next year’s performances and people will begin checking their calendars to see if they can squeeze in some vacation time for February 2011.

There will be a new flight connecting Cusco with Iguazu, making Peru travel connections to the breathtaking waterfalls even easier. With this new direct access visitors will be able to see two of South America’s most important travel destinations in less than a week (Machu Picchu and Iguazu Falls). Iguazu Falls is one of the most exciting natural sites in the world, with 275 falls along a 1.6 mile section of the Iguazu River. It was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

The second addition to Lan Peru will be a few flights a week between Easter Island and Lima. This will eliminate the need for travelers to go to Santiago before flying to Easter Island. Lan is clearly expanding its Lima hub, with even more plans in the future for new connections and additional frequencies to popular business destinations.

The new flights to Easter Island will be launched sometime in the second half of 2010. Beginning with a few flights a week, they will be matching the demands of the consumers. Lan says Easter Island and Iguazu are only a part of what they are planning for the coming years. Several expansion options are being considered such as a flight to the Galapagos, teaming up with TAME carrier. Flights to the Galapagos are very restricted so Lan would be unable to operate any new services to the island chain’s two airports.

With Lan’s expansions focusing especially on southern destinations, Latin America travelers can benefit from the efficiency of more routes. Travelers have more flexibility on how they want to plan their vacation. For further information on the new flights, see the LAN Peru website: www.lan.com or to book a Latin America vacation package, contact a Latin America For Less travel advisor on travel@latinamericaforless.com.

The Plaza de Armas of Ayacucho is beautifully developed, with a stunning cathedral on the east side and lush green grasses surrounding a central fountain. Take a visit to the central market and you’ll find you’re probably the only person in there that doesn’t speak Quechua. Rows of Señora’s stand in front of huge sacks of ‘wawa’, fresh-baked sweet bread, in the shape of a baby after its Quechua name.

Ayacucho Cathedral at Night

When your face appears at the juice bars, the women lean over their counters smiling and waving you over, competing for your business. Walking down the aisle of smelly cheeses, you’ll pop out onto the back street where against the wall, you’ll find huge sacks of coca leaves, and men and women, young and old coming to buy coca.

Sadly, in the 1980s, the city and region of Ayacucho were affected by unrest caused by the Maoist guerrilla band, known as the Shining Path. Combined with the Peruvian military’s often harsh reaction, the unrest caused Ayacucho to become one of the poorest regions of Peru. Fortunately the strife ended with the arrest of the Shining Path’s leader in 1992 and Ayacucho has been a peaceful place for more than 15 years.

This difficult history has left Ayacucho struggling to develop as a tourist destination despite its stunning location and friendly inhabitants. The city offers visitors a balance between modern comforts and traditional culture. In the center you’ll find quality hotels with hot water, restaurants with English menus serving a wide variety of dishes beyond the locally popular pollo a la brasa and puca picante. There’s an artisan market that makes souvenir buying easy and offers  among the cheapest prices on Peruvian handicrafts you’ll find anywhere in the country.

Central Ayacucho

I was in Ayacucho long enough to become a regular at the juice counter, trying to spread my custom around though it’s difficult when these sweet ladies smile in recognition of my face and call up my usual without a moment’s thought, ‘platano con leche.’ They always had plenty of customers anyway, no matter when I showed up.

The downtown is a far cry from what you’ll find in the outer districts of the city, where people live very simply without many of the comforts of modern life. Taking the bus up the hill to the orphanage where I was a volunteer, I’d sit next to a tired old woman, with a sun-dried face under a brown, flat-brimmed hat, huge bundles of vegetables filled a rice-sack at her feet and a young baby wrapped around her back in a brightly colored wool shawl. Soon, I’d stand up to give up my seat to another woman, looking the same.

Climbing down from the bus to the dusty, rubble streets of Carmen Alto, children are playing soccer in sandals made of tire, and an old toothless man is standing on the corner selling cheese. Listening to the playful banter of the children however, you wouldn’t know they had a problem in the world.

Looking across the city tucked down in the valley to the 10,000 ft mountains on the other side, you can see the large white obelisk at Quinua. Just an hour away, this is the site of the Battle of Ayacucho, winning Peru the War of Independence in 1824. Nowadays, you can explore the quaint little town, famous for beautiful handcrafted pottery, horseback riding and its short hike to a beautiful waterfall.

The well-preserved Wari ruins are located just below Quinua on your way back to Ayacucho. The hiking is beautiful, and the rich history of the ancient Wari culture is evident in administrative and ceremonial sites. Exploring off the path a little bit and you’ll find broken shards of pottery and arrowheads scattered on the ground. Quinua and Wari are just two of the easy excursions from Ayacucho.

Ayacucho can be reached daily from Lima in just over an hour flight with LC Busre or Star Peru. In fact, there are rumors of a regular Ayacucho – Cusco flight being added to the agenda in the next couple years, which will quickly boost the tourism industry in Ayacucho, linking it as an easy stop-over on the way to Machu Picchu. The city is certainly ready for it.

So, check your Peru itineraries, because maybe now is the best time to go before the city loses some of that undiscovered quality.

Emily was a volunteer for the Casa Hogar Los Gorriones in Ayacucho, Peru. If you would like to learn more about volunteering at Los Gorriones or how you can help, please visit their website.