Buenos Aires, the city that never sleeps

After breakfast in your Buenos Aires hotel you should head out to explore this huge city.

For a first time visitor, Buenos Aires can be overwhelming, as the city is packed with hundreds of excellent restaurants, dozens of museums, art galleries, and on-going exhibitions.

You should start by making your way to Plaza Mayo, which is where Casa Rosada and the Central Cathedral is located, and was the famous place where Eva Peron spoke to crowds before her death.

From Plaza Mayo you can head up Av. Diagonal Norte to Plaza de la Republic, which is graced by the grand Obelisk. Av. 9 de Julio, the largest avenue in the world, cuts through the heart of Buenos Aires.

By this time, you’re probably thinking about lunch. Nearly every street corner in Buenos Aires has a gourmet restaurant. If you walk up Av. Honduras towards Palermo Hollywood you will find plenty of terrific restaurants. Plaza Serrano, which is at Av. Serrano and Av. Honduras in Palermo, is a nice place to find somewhere to eat.

The trendy Palermo district is split in two by train tracks. The SoHo side is home to Buenos Aires’s young middle class. In Palermo Hollywood are Argentina’s movie and TV studios, as well as a number of smaller cafes and bars. Venturing over the train tracks is definitely recommended.

After lunch spend some time exploring the streets before you head off to the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires (MALBA)? on Av. Pres. Figueroa Alcorta. The museum houses an interesting collection of modern as well as pre-Columbian art.

Nearby is the Museo Evita (Av. Lafinur 2988) which is dedicated to the life of Eva Peron, who was immortalized in the movie Evita and was played by Madonna. The film shows what Argentina achieved in the post-war period to tackle poverty, fight inequality, and improve education, as well as the horrible story about what happened to the body of Eva after her death.

A short walk up the street with take you to Plaza Italia which is next to the Buenos Aires Zoo, which is open till late, especially in the summer months. You can spend time meandering the expansive park.

If you are looking to spend the night like a typical porteño, going out late and dancing you should head to Av. Cornel Niceto Vega and Av. Humbolt. Vega Avenue is lined with chic clubs open all night long. Av. Humbolt has a number of restaurants, a cinema, and a British/style pub.

If you happen to wake early after a late night out in the city and it is a Sunday morning, you should make your way to the street market in San Telmo (Av. Defensa) where they sell a range of market goods, food, and what San Telmo is famous for, antiques.

The area of San Telmo is very artsy, with the main plaza in San Telmo having tango and dance shows put on by locals every week. The plaza is also a good place to find something to eat and a small bar to listen to some live jazz.

After exploring the streets around San Telmo, you should make your way over to the residential area of Recoleta.

Recoleta is home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, the resting place of the Argentine high society. Some of the graves are more like monuments and it is worth having a look around.

From the cemetery you can walk to the nearby chapel and then down to the Recoleta Design Center which is more like a mall, selling the very latest in fashions from Argentina and the world.

There are some great lunch spots around here, just see what you can find. But for a quick lunch, you can pick up an Argentine empanada, a meat-filled sandwich available on nearly every street corner for only a few pesos.

You can then walk down to the Museo Nacional de Bella Artes (Av. Libertador), the museum of fine arts in Buenos Aires.

No trip to Buenos Aires would be complete without exploring the stuff that runs through the blood of every Argentine – a passion for soccer.

When the Boca Juniors play in La Bombadero stadium, the city stops and everyone’s attention centers on the game. The stadium, located in the district of La Boca, also has a museum that tells the history of the team and its famous Buenos Aires players.

You can then head down the waterfront in La Boca to see the colorful houses that line the streets. La Boca is a typical ‘working class’ area of Buenos Aires and was home to waves of early immigrants to the city, a very interesting place.

Some final places to make sure you visit if you somehow find the time is the new Puerto Madero development, the newest part of the city, which backs onto the banks of the river and the Buenos Aires ecological reserve.

Also you should visit the area around Retiro station, with the grand clock tower ‘Torre de los Ingleses’ which contrary to recent Argentine British relations, was donated by the British government to commemorate the Argentine May Independence revolution and the closeness between the two nations at the start of the 20^th century.

Buenos Aires is a huge city that even residents have not fully explored. 48 hours is not enough to see it all, but you can always try!

In May 1810, Argentina’s independence movement began, culminating on the 25^th of May with the government of Rio de Plate (what is now Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and Bolivia) creating its own government, separate to the one of the Spanish king, yet still loyal to the crown.

The center of celebrations for May Revolution Week will be on Avienda 9 de Julio

As news of this spread, similar home rule governments sprouted up. The Spanish king, weakened by the Napoleonic invasion, was unable to quell colonial ambitions. In the spirit of Enlightenment thought, many Spanish colonies successfully asserted their independence.

Cities around the country are preparing to host free live music concerts, parades, and shows. Tonight in Buenos Aires, a parade will kick-off the celebrations at 8pm. The parade will weave through the center of the city, passing the central obelisk and a concert stage on Avienda 9 de Julio. Other events will start at 8pm throughout the city.

On Saturday at 12pm, the military will celebrate the occasion with the “desfilódromo” parade, marching between the obelisk and Avienda Belgrano. Over

3000 soldiers in their historical Argentine military uniforms will accompany the Argentina Air Force and the cavalry.

Along the grand Avienda 9 de Julio will be stalls and markets for people to taste Argentinian cuisine typical of Buenos Aires as well as other regions.

Each day of festivities will have a musical theme. Rock music starts things off today, Saturday will be Latin music, Sunday will be folk and tango, and Monday will have performances from the National Symphony Orchestra. The festivities culminate on Tuesday, the 25^th, with a performance by the famous Argentinean musician Fito Paez.

The key events fall on the final day, with a range of political and religious events to take place in the Casa Rosada in Plaza Mayor, in the heart of the city. While you’re in the city, check out the great Buenos Aires museums, and make sure to tango. If you’re wondering where to stay in town, we’ve got you covered with a list of Buenos Aires hotels.

Whatever you decide to do, do it in typical Argentine style: stay out late and dance!

The best Cusco hotels are concentrated in the city’s central districts so if arriving by air, take a taxi (5 soles) from the airport. Begin your stay with a visit to the city’s Plaza de Armas, the central legacy of the city’s colonial history.

A woman crosses Cusco's Plazs de Armas, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Arriving in the city in 1533, the Spanish were determined to stamp their mark on the rebellious Incas by constructing impressive monuments to European civilization on important spiritual sites. The Plaza de Armas with its dominating cathedral and plethora of other religious buildings is a prime example.

You can visit the cathedral (entrance $5) which was constructed directly atop the remains of a grand Inca palace. Inside the cathedral you will be treated to a fine display of art from the Cusco school, another remnant of the Spanish conquest which blended indigenous and European traditions, intended to assimilate European cultural dominance over indigenous civilizations.

Most of the other attractions within Cusco can only be accessed by purchasing a tourist ticket, the boleto touristico ($40) which seems expensive, but guarantees access to all of the major sites and which is valid for ten days. To get the most value from your ticket, take a Sacred Valley tour after your stay in Cusco and visit as many additional sites as possible.

Purchase your ticket from the main tourist office just one block east of the Plaze de Armas. Your ticket will be accompanied by a handy map to Cusco, with a walking tour of the main sites around the old town. Look carefully and you’ll notice that the original city layout was designed in the shape of a puma by the celebrated Inca ruler, Pachacutec.

Your walking tour begins nearby at the museum of Qorikancha, located in the basement of a former temple with a wide selection of exhibits documenting Inca life. Look out for the eerie remains of ancient mummies that were retrieved from the cemetery.

Pre-Colombian exhibits at Cusco's Qorikancha museum, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Just a short walk along from the museum is the Cosqo Center of Native Art, with a vast collection of indigenous costumes and musical instruments. If you’re lucky you’ll catch a short performance of local music and dance. Check for performance times at the front desk.

From here, follow the busy Avenida El Sol (Sun Avenue) which was named in honor of the Inca’s worship of the sun god, Inti. You’ll eventually reach a busy junction dominated by a colossal statue of the Inca leader Pachakuteq. You can climb this tower although the views of the busy streets below are not stunning – the real attraction is inside, with an illustrated history of the Inca leaders and a brief history of their vast empire.

Head back to town in the same direction and stop in at the enormous handicraft market for some great bargains on souvenirs. This is probably the cheapest place to get your hands on those famous Peruvian holiday gifts; panpipes, woolly hats, ponchos and bags made from colorful textiles and llama wool.

The market is also home to a couple of great value restaurants where you can replenish your energy with a large plate of the local specialties which include guinea pig and alpaca steaks.

Walk back to the colonial center choosing your own route through Cusco’s trademark winding, cobbled streets and take in the atmosphere of this ancient city.

If you have the energy, spend the afternoon making a short walk up to the San Blas neighborhood, perched on the hillsides above the Plaza de Armas. It is in San Blas that you’ll get a feel for Cusco’s famous vibe, where bars and cafes, restaurants and bakeries, and tiny art galleries and handicraft stalls all compete for your attention.

This is also a place to catch some great views over the city, especially towards dusk and sunset. Spend the evening in one of the many cafes and bars in San Blas, the best of which are dotted across the top of the quaint Plaza San Blas.

Rise early and enjoy breakfast in your Cusco hotel before setting off for the city’s biggest and most important archaeological site, Saqsaywaman. This Inca fortress which lies across a mountain top above Cusco has a long, and sometimes bloody, history.

Vast stonework at Saqsaywaman, Cusco, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

What remains is just a fraction of the original site but the unbelievably huge stone blocks that were perfectly carved to create the vast structure gives a clear impression of the ingenuity and might of the Inca empire.

Despite this, it was here that the Inca’s last stand against the Spanish failed after a long and dramatic siege came to an end, marking the conquistador’s final domination over this    great civilization.

Only the very fit will attempt the steep walk up to the site, everyone else will want to hail a taxi (around 10 soles from the Plaza de Armas).

On-site information is very limited so you may want to hire a guide for around 30-40 soles. Prices are negotiable and tours in Spanish will be a bit cheaper. Alternatively, most international Peru tours operators will include a professionally guided tour of this important site in their itinerary.

You can easily spend a full morning at Saqsaywaman before taking a return taxi to central Cusco for lunch in one of the cafes and restaurants on the Plaza de Armas.

Street scene in Cusco, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Museum fans can fill up on more local history and culture at the excellent Museum of Contemporary Art and the Museum of Regional History, both to the south of the Plaza. Otherwise spend a leisurely afternoon exploring the city’s back streets where glimpses of a former age are to be found everywhere – not least in the traditionally dressed women and girls posing for photos with their pet llamas (you’ll be expected to pay 1 sole for the privilege though!)

Enjoy a final evening in Cusco’s historical center, where all the most important and impressive buildings are well illuminated for extra effect. Treat yourself with dinner at Sumaq Misky on the main Plaza which serves up some of the finest food in town before heading out to enjoy the vibrant nightlife, or catching an early night’s sleep before leaving for your next Peru vacation destination.

With a population that has grown to over 20 million, São Paulo is predominantly a city of immigrants. Its ethnic diversity and industrial development has produced Brazil’s largest, most cultured and best educated middle class. Travelers to São Paulo will experience a dynamic city, with skyscrapers that spread across the city’s vast area; restaurants to suit every taste; and a nightlife that never stops. With so many options it can often be difficult for visitors to know where to start. Enter the experts:

The South American city that never sleeps, Sao Paulo, Brazil

FRIDAY

1pm: FIRST TASTE OF BAHIA

Start off your visit in the verdant Jardims district with a delicious and authentic lunch at Brazil a Gosto, a wonderful restaurant inspired by the various flavors and recipes that Brazil has to offer try the popular Bahian snack Miniacarajé which is a fried pasty made from bean flour filled with the unique combination of shrimp, cashew and peanut purée, bean flour and okra, plus an extra side of shrimps and a green tomato vinaigrette.

2pm: SWAN ALONG PAULISTA

A walk down Paulist Avenue, Sao Paulo, Brazil

After lunch, take a walk down Paulista Avenue. This is a must see for any traveler in São Paulo and is considered by locals to be the beating heart of the city. It is located in the northeastern section of Jardims, known as Cerqueira César. The avenue is lined with tall skyscrapers, shops, churches, restaurants, cafés, museums and hotels; there has been much commercial investment on the avenue to its centralized location. It has now become a symbol of the dynamic and entrepreneurial nature of the city’s economy making it well worth a visit.

While here, you can visit the excellent collection at The Museu de Arte de São Paulo. This has a fascinating collection of over 8,000 works by predominantly European artists of great fame (Rembrandt, Monet, Renoir, Picasso and Van Gogh to name but a few!) alongside a significant handful of Brazilian pieces as well.

7pm: UNDERNEATH THE FIG TREE

For a delectable local dinner, head over to Figueira Rubaiyat. This fabulous old restaurant is built around the branches of a fig tree giving a magical touch to any meal here. No less magical is the succulent flavor of the meat served, particularly the beef which is considered the specialty and is raised in the owner’s own personal ranch.

10pm: REACH FOR THE SKYE

Look up to Skye Bar for a clean and classy club experience – this smart venue is on top of the trendy Unique hotel (Av. Brigadeiro Luiz Antonio, 4700) and has a spectacular sweeping view of the city’s seemingly endless twinkling street lights. There is a very nice lounge and restaurant to share a drink with the eclectic group that converges here. Dress up smart, but not OTT.

SATURDAY

10am: CHILL IN THE PARK

In the morning, head down to Ibrupuera Park to freshen the head. This is one of the nicest spots in the city; the park is considered by Paulistanos as their equivalent of Central Park in New York. It is also a center of important museums and hosting cultural events. It is a picture of serenity containing pristine grassy areas, paths for running and cycling and a stage for outdoor theatre and concerts. There are also playgrounds, lakes and even a small wood for reading offering travelers a welcome break from the noise of the city. If you’re lucky, you might catch one of the free concerts organized by city hall at the weekends.

12pm: MUSE THE MODERN

While at Ibrupuera park, visit one or more of the three important museums here. The Museu de Arte Moderna is perhaps the best; a space for some of the more modern artwork produced in Brazil. Their mission is to “collect, study, encourage and diffuse contemporary and modern Brazilian Art, making it accessible to the greatest number of people possible”:  well worth a visit for travelers at Ibirapuera.

2pm: COOL OFF IN VILA MADALENA

In the afternoon, delve into the cultural and artistic heart of São Paulo, with an indispensable look around the district of Vila Madalena. It is here that artists, actors, musicians and designers converge into the numerous galleries and studios of modern and contemporary art. Not only in these conventional mediums can the artistic flair of Vila Madalena be discovered – winding streets and alleyways are adorned with fabulous graffiti created by the most famous of Brazilian artists. Amongst the most visited sites are a record store with 80,000 vinyl and a “green building” which is designed using entirely sustainable concepts – a life form in the midst of a metropolis.

6pm: A MEAL OF ETHNIC PROPORTIONS

After an afternoon of culture, head out for dinner in one of the many authentic ethnic restaurants that Vila Madalena and Pinheiros have to offer. You could try Japenese sushi at Kabuki, classic Italian food at Santa Gula, maybe some spicy Moroccan at Agadir or splash out on some Spanish cuisine at Don Curro. The sheer variety of restaurants here demonstrates the strong influence that the immigrant populations have had on the city.

The Sao Paulo skyline at night, Brazil

9pm: NIGHT ON THE TILES

As the night draws nearer, the famous nightlife of Vila Madalena and Pinheiros starts to heat up. Start out in one of the cozy traditional Brazilian bars with beer on tap before heading to whichever club takes your fancy. The district has something for everyone: from jumping dance clubs to sophisticated bars. The only problem here is deciding when to head to bed: the party here goes on all night.

SUNDAY

10am: IN THE CENTER OF A METROPOLIS

On Sunday morning after rush hour, drift over to explore the historical center of town. Although there are not many remains of colonial Brazil here, some sense can be grasped of the history and architectural development of the city. The Monastery of São Bento (Saint Benedict) is a mandatory stop, with 17^th century architecture restored in the early 1900’s in a more Germanic fashion. The monastary is now home to around 40 cloistered monks who follow the routine of work and prayer. For a truly sacred experience, visitors should attend one of the daily masses.

A few blocks away from São Bento is the Praça da Sé, which is a wide open plaza containing the magnificent Catedral Metropolitana. Although the current cathedral building only dates to 1954, the site has hosted various churches dating back to the foundation of the city.

A picture postcard of Sao Paulo often includes The Viaduto do Chá (the tea bridge). This is a wide and long viaduct that became the first to be built in the city after it was inaugurated in 1892. It is named for the large crop of Indian tea that was cultivated in the Vale do Anhangabaú district of the city’s central zone in which the viaduct is located. Today it is a key artery in the city center, linking what was previously considered to be downtown (Rua Directa) with the now more significant area of Rua Barão de Itapetininga. It is lined with street vendors selling various trinkets. Beneath the Viaduct is the Parque Anhangabaú, a pretty park in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the center.

12pm: REMEMBER THE ROOTS

Round off your 48 hours in Sao Paulo with a look at the oldest building in town, São Paulo Igreija de Sao Francisco de Assissi. Originally built in 1647 and renovated a century later, this is one of the few physical remnants of the Portuguese empire that remains standing. This baroque style church is actually home to two separate religious institutions; one is ran by the catholic church whereas the other is controlled strictly by laypeople. The churches play an important role in the community, organizing fundraising events to help to support poor people with food.

Multicolored hills of Purnamarca outside Salta city, Argentina

FRIDAY

1pm: GET REAL
Grab a delicious and authentic Salteño lunch at Doña Salta’s, located at the heart of historical and cultural Salta and just across the street from the magnificent rose red and cream-colored towers of the Iglesia San Francisco. Serving what even Argentinean reviewers call “the best empanadas in the country,” Doña Salta’s also serves a variety of other Creole and Argentine dishes, including mouth-watering pumpkin and beef locro, humitas, tamales, and a chef’s menu that changes monthly, depending on the dictates of holiday and seasonal specialties.

2pm: CULTURE TIME
Stroll off the food coma by walking the short few blocks from lunch down calle Cordoba, turning onto Caseros, which will lead you straight to the city’s leafy Plaza 9 de Julio.  Dotted with commemorative statues and fragrant orange trees, bordered on all sides by sidewalk cafes and historical buildings; the plaza serves as the main meeting area for much of the city’s cultural and social events.  Head directly to the Museum of High Altitude Archaeology (MAAN), housed in an ornate colonial two-story peach building facing onto the plaza.  Though the museum’s most popular display is the mummified bodies of three child sacrifices found on the summit of the Lliullaillaco Volcano, there are many other fascinating and informative displays regarding the cultural history of Salta’s high plains dwellers.

A privileged city view from above on the teleferico, Salta, Argentina

5pm: SUNSET/MOONRISE

After visiting the museum, take advantage of the central location to stroll the storefronts that border the plaza, where artisans and jewelry makers display their handcrafted wares. Additionally, pop into any of the fine art galleries in this area, many of which deal not only in traditional canvas landscapes and portraits, but also in creative art, like minutely detailed dolls, stone and wood mobiles, colorful weavings and hand-painted wall ornaments. Relax briefly at a sidewalk café for a coffee and alfajor to recharge the batteries before taking the teleferico (Avenida San Martin y H. Yrigoyen) to the summit of Cerro San Bernadino. Snuggle up to your loved one and watch the transformation of the panorama as the city and surrounding Andean foothills fade into darkness; faint twinkling lights replacing the sunny daytime flashes of gold towers and glossy windows.

10pm: EVENING

Spend the evening in one of the city’s greatest institutions: La Casona del Molino.  Originally built in 1671, this crumbling colonial mansion (now sans grain mill) is one of the liveliest places in Salta to enjoy a traditional peña, or live music show. Pass around a deliciously potent Cafayate wine on the veranda while tucking into a hearty Argentine steak before heading out; or alternatively, stay to watch the peña show in an audience of fellow travelers, young college students, and life-long Salta residents.  The festive atmosphere is tangible the minute you sweep aside the creaky entry gate and walk up the path; already the windpipes and upbeat zamba rhythm (Salta’s answer to the samba) can be heard pounding through the flaking walls.

SATURDAY

9am: PEOPLE WATCH
Though it is true that Argentineans don’t really ‘do’ breakfast, some excellent and filling meals can be found at the cafés surrounding the 9 de Julio Plaza.  Fresh fruit smoothies, cheesy tostados and espresso- machine coffee prepared the way you like are standard at almost any of the European-style patio cafés around the square- morning paper not included!

Rose and custard Cathedral on Plaza 9 de Julio, Salta, Argentina

10am: HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES
After picking up some fresh mangoes, grapes and cactus fruit from one of the ubiquitous fresh fruit carts wheeled around the city, hop on a bus heading to the city’s exclusive detached suburb of San Lorenzo, where the wealthiest Argentines keep their summer homes.  Lining the gentle slope of this leafy neighborhood that leads to the public park and restaurant at the top are a series of bougainvillea and ivy-covered white brick colonial mansions, many of which also have pools and tennis courts on the extensive grounds visible in gaps along their high adobe walls.

11am: GAUCHO LUXE
Walk the approximately two mile self-guided mountain trail through the lush green quebrada de San Lorenzo, or talk to the park ranger at the entrance who can give you advice about local families offering guided horseback rides through the gorge. Take your time admiring the gorgeous mountaintop views, hunting for ripe avocados fallen from the trees by the disused stables, and soak your feet from a bridge over the cooling stream that runs along the trail.  Follow the loop leisurely for as long as you like, knowing that a hearty lunch of pasta, fresh steak or sandwiches is waiting for you at the peaceful creek side restaurant El Duende. Split across three levels of native wood furniture and decking, El Duende is an established neighborhood haunt, curled idyllically on a grassy lawn along the same stream that runs through the sub-tropical gorge further uphill.

9pm: HIGH PLAINS GONE GOURMET
Give into Argentine tradition and have an early-ish dinner at one of the city’s most popular restaurants, José Balcarce.  Serving a mouth-watering menu of creative modern takes on traditional high-plain Andean cuisine, this elegant restaurant led by chef Lalo Angelina has recently begun making waves on the developing Salteña foodie scene.  Popular and more original fusion recipes include llama carpaccio and creamy quinoa-topped llama steak, surrounded by Andean potatoes and fresh asparagus.  Opened in 2001 by a team of chefs, this restaurant is proud to include the freshest and most seasonal dishes in its ever-changing menu, most of which come from the local agricultural communities of Tilcara and Humahuaca.

Creamy quinoa-topped llama steak from restaurante José Balcarce, Salta, Argentina

10pm: TANGO TIME
If in the city on a Saturday, tango the night away at the popular milonga of Paseo de las Poetas, one of only five open air tango venues in Argentina.  Entrance is free, with live music starting at around 7 pm (Argentine time, about 8) and continuing until midnight. Gather with the locals and enjoy the plaza experience.  If unsure about your tango skills, take a class at El Ático, open Tuesdays and Thursdays for classes from 7 pm onward.

SUNDAY

11am: CITY HANGOVER
Enjoy an espresso and fresh orange juice at a café on the city’s bohemian calle Balcarce- forming the heart of the city’s artistic community.  Located within blocks of the train station where the Tren a las Nubes departs, this stretch of 7 or 8 blocks began 100 years ago as the cultural centre of the city, unfortunately falling into disrepair over the years, then only to be rescued 10 years ago by the city’s current mayor.  The name Balcarce, however, is now synonymous with ‘hip nightspot,’ serving as the centre of Salta’s vibrant nightlife; with loads of chic and character-laden venues, including La Estacion, which is housed in a converted movie theatre.

Artsy and independent Paseo Balcarce, center of the town's nightlife, Salta, Argentina

12pm: SHOPPING LIST
Every Sunday, over 200 street vendors gather on Balcarce at the Feria Artesanal de Balcarce to sell their various wares, whether traditional Andean crafts, fresh honeys, regional produce or Alpaca scarves to wrap up in during the chilly Salta winter.  Visit the organic market to finish off the final people on your gift list, but don’t forget to buy some regional gourmet goodies for yourself as well!