With the trains fired up and shuttling visitors back into the mountains and up to Machu Picchu, things are looking normal again in the Cusco region. The damage from this year’s unusually wet rainy season was a big disappointment to travelers in February and March and a disaster for the small villages and business in the area. However, poco a poco, things are turning around with the reopening of the trains, and smiling faces are filling the streets of this historic city.

Machu Picchu and Cusco Reopen Again

Cusco, which had turned into a virtual ghost-town with the closing of Machu Picchu, has been ferrying visitors back and forth from the ruins in almost-normal fashion and memories of the harsh rainstorms just a few months back are fading from people’s minds.
In fact, the weather has been so stunning this month, it is hard to believe the hard rains ever came at all. These days, bright sunshine and clear blue skies are accompanying most tourists on their journey to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.

“We couldn’t have asked for better weather on our visit to Machu Picchu. Exploring the ruins was such an experience, I feel so fortunate to have visited such an amazing place.” one Peru For Less traveler told me last week.

With the re-opening of Machu Picchu, the famous Inca Trail trekking route has also once again been bearing hikers’ footsteps. Crossing “Dead Woman’s Pass” and snaking through the ruins of Intipata, hikers are passing through the Sun Gate to descend upon Machu Picchu from above, with a sense of accomplishment lightening their steps.

For now, trains are busy running from a small outpost called Piscacucho, also known as Kilometer 82, to Aguas Calientes, the small town just below Machu Picchu. While at the beginning of April the train companies were running five trains a day, the number has quickly jumped to 14 between Peru Rail and Inca Rail, allowing far more flexibility and access to the ruins.

“Things are looking better and better and we are hoping to have trains running the normal route from Ollantaytambo in July. Clients are coming back from Machu Picchu feeling really good about their trip.” said Peru For Less’ Cusco Operations Manager, Caitlin Ham.  “Having the trains eventually running from Ollantaytambo will cut out some of the longer bus rides that visitors are currently taking.”

Regardless of the journey, the prize at the end is still the same. Machu Picchu is a remarkable destination that is once again welcoming visitors through its majestic gates and on the journey of a lifetime.

Our introduction to the jaw-dropping scenery of Peru’s Sacred Valley began long before we started our expedition along the Lares trek. Just getting to base camp entailed a drive up through winding mountain roads, passing a string of Inca ruins and rustic villages where we stopped for bread and other provisions in preparation for our four day hike deep into the wilderness of the Peruvian Andes.

Passing a herd of llama on the first day of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

We’d only been hiking a few minutes before a steady drizzle started to fall, forcing us to stop and unpack our waterproofs from the mules. “Rain down here means snow up there,” said Luis, our guide, who pointed up the distant valley with a wry grin.

From the tiny settlement of Huaran we immediately began the steep, one thousand meter climb that would continue all day until we arrived at our first camp. Following a trail that hugged the edges of a fast-flowing river we entered a long, steep corridor of cloud forest leading up to the glacial peaks of Cancha Casa and Chicon that dominated the valley head.

Insisting that we keep a slow, steady pace, Luis began to share some of his vast knowledge of the area, pointing out the darting hummingbirds, explaining the symbiotic partnership between the bromeliads and their tree hosts and revealing the medicinal properties of the various plant life that lined our trail.

As we ascended the steep trail we could see the environment altering around us; flowering plants became less frequent, the trees became ever smaller until they resembled dwarfed stumps and the climate began to change, the wind picked up and a sharp chill entered the air.

But before we reached the tree-line itself it was time to break for some lunch. Meals during a Peru trekking tour are a logistical miracle, with a caravan of porters and mules racing ahead to set up kitchen and have a hot meal ready and waiting for the group’s arrival.

We replenished ourselves on a high energy lunch of steaming soup, sandwiches, fruit and cake before loading up again to continue the ascent until eventually emerging from the tree-line and out onto the rocky no-mans land between cloud forest and glacier, under the shadow of the snow-capped mountains ahead.

We traversed this landscape for four steady hours until the trail led us into the miniscule village of Cancha Cancha, a settlement typical to this area of high Peruvian altiplano where llama and alpaca herding is the main occupation and braving the biting cold is a way of life.

The local children ran out to meet us as we entered the village, while the weary herds of animals showed more caution. Despite still being early, around 5pm, the sun had already disappeared behind the mountains and the evening cold had set in. It was here that our earlier shopping for all those famous Peruvian souvenirs; wooly hats, gloves and ponchos, proved its worth.

A llama watches the sunet on day one of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Before dinner was served, Luis pointed yet further up to the highest, snow-covered point of the mountain pass. “That’s where we’re heading tomorrow,” he declared. “As far and as high as you can see, in that direction!”

After an enormous meal of spicy soup, chicken, vegetables and mashed potato, our group sat in the dining tent, huddled for warmth with a cup of rum in hand, to listen to Luis’s descriptions of the folklore associated with the surrounding mountain ranges and later, explanations of the star constellations shining vividly overhead.

But the night was too cold for star gazing and by 9pm we were all in our tents, inside the sleeping bags and cozily wrapped up from the harsh elements of the altiplano.

Day 2: 15km, Cancha Cancha (3800m) to Quishuarani (3700m)

We started the following day in luxury, having been woken at 5:30am with coffee and a bowl of hot water brought to our tent by our tireless porters. After filling up on breakfast and loading the mules we began the steady climb towards the first mountain pass of the trek.

As we rose towards the peaks we passed by a handful of youngsters, out keeping watch over herds of llamas and alpacas, before leaving all traces of civilization behind us. Up here there was nothing but Andean geese, a large native mountain bird called the Cara Cara, and oversized, stone-colored rabbits, the Viscacha, to keep us company.

As we hit the snow-line our trail took us past a series of large, natural caves in the mountain side. Luis explained that this spot is from where his spiritual ancestors were said to have originated, emerging from the cave carrying maize seeds, water and coca leaves, signifying the most important aspects of life in this region.

View from the first mountain pass on the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Finally reaching the highest point of the Pachacutec pass at 4700m, we were rewarded with stunning views across two valley systems, while far below us lay a set of dazzling turquoise lakes. It was up here that Luis stopped to make a ceremonial offering to the mountain gods, the apus, lighting a small fire to burn incense, sweets, coca leaves and other important gifts which would help ensure our smooth passage through the mountains.

After skirting around the mountain peak we began the steady thousand meter descent back below the snow-line and towards our second camp, stopping again for a large lunch before arriving after a full 8 hours hiking in the small settlement of Quishuarani.

Quishuarani was a slightly larger settlement than the previous night’s camp and we were treated to such luxuries as cold beer and chocolate from the village store. As on the previous night, the local youngsters were fascinated with their strange-looking visitors and we spent a couple of hours handing out gifts of coloring books and pencils to the younger kids, while learning a few musical tricks from the older ones, expert players of an Andean ten-stringed instrument called the charango.

Our second camp was also blessed with a small shelter, constructed by the local reserve authority to encourage more visitors to the area, which offered us a warmer environment to eat dinner and share a few mugs of rum with our vivacious guide and a few local villagers.

“Right! I’m going to teach you one of our Andean games!” Luis roared across the table, signaling the start of a long, happy night of dice games and rum drinking that lasted into the small hours.

Day 3: 20km, Quishuarani (3700m) to Lares Hot Springs (3100m)

After our late night we emerged the following morning with startlingly clear heads – perhaps a benefit of the fresh mountain air. “Everyone needs to fill up with a good breakfast,” Luis instructed, “and take plenty of water too. We’ve got a big day ahead of us.”

It was good advice: from Quishuarani we made the most demanding hike of the trip, tackling an incredibly steep incline that took us up to Hullquicasa which, at 4400m above sea level, was the second big mountain pass of our trek.

We were back above the snowline here, although the sun and the sheer physical exertion had everyone sweating buckets. In fact, we were concentrating so hard on getting up the mountainside, we almost missed the astonishing landscape we’d just walked into.

“Now look behind you,” Luis coolly suggested as we clambered, spluttering and wheezing, to the highest point of the pass. The view was almost unbelievable, as though we’d walked into a painting: the mountain fell away from us into a long, wide and grassy valley, dotted with brilliant blue lakes that reflected the skies like shimmering mirrors. Semi-wild horses, ancient stone buildings and small herds of llamas dotted the foreground, while in the distance was a never ending range of jagged mountains and snow-topped peaks.

View from the second mountain pass of the Lares Trek, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

This was a perfect spot to catch our breath and replenish ourselves on some high-energy snacks. But our smug self-congratulations for having made it up such an impossible climb were shattered by the arrival of an elderly lady, a local to the area, who was virtually running up the trail, a baby wrapped up on her back and a toddler pattering along beside her.

“Napaykullayki!” she called over, the regional Quechua greeting, shooting us a toothy grin as she raced past and down the other side, quickly becoming a small, colorful dot in the landscape.

Shamed into action, we clambered back onto our feet and began the descent down into the next valley. The trail passed dozens of small, perfectly calm lagoons and a swift river that eventually turned into a sequence of increasingly impressive waterfalls. Along the sides of the valleys were wide screes of boulders and rocks that had fallen from the mountain sides and now provided an ideal home for bounding families of the Viscacha rabbits who were entirely oblivious to us as we walked by.

Stopping for a short break next to one of these lagoons, the peace was disturbed by a suddenly animated Luis, breaking his cool for a rare, excited moment to point out the enormous condor circling above our heads.

The condor, the largest flying bird in the Americas, is a creature of immense spiritual and symbolic importance to the indigenous people of the Andes, as Luis’ reaction made clear. “That is a sign of real luck, my friends!” He beamed at us. “The condor isn’t so common in this range, but the mountains have certainly blessed us today!”

After stopping for lunch at the river-side village of Cuncani, we continued along the downward trail, following the river towards the Lares valley itself. During the wet season, this onward journey is usually split across two days, but thanks to the dry conditions we were able to continue walking for much longer.

After Cuncani the trail returned us to the tree-line and re-entered the more humid and milder climate and ecosystem of the Andean tropical forest. The path snaked through farmland and rustic agricultural settlements before dropping again, into the more settled and tamed environment of the Lares valley.

Entering the Lares Valley, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Before long, the river had become a gushing torrent, fuelled by the glacial waters running through the valley which itself had become increasingly lush, the trees grew taller, the undergrowth thicker, and the sounds of birdsong returned to the breeze.

Eventually, rounding a corner along the valley’s edge we were presented with the most welcome sight in days: our camp, already set up by our outstanding team of porters, situated directly next to the series of therapeutic hot springs that make the village of Lares famous.

This was luxury in the true sense of the word and as we stripped out of our mud-clad trekking gear and into the hot showers and pools to rest our weary muscles, it was hard to suppress our grins of absolute contentment.

Day 4: 8km, Lares Hot Springs (3100m) to Inca Ruins

Having completed an extra stretch of hiking the following day, our final day on the trek was a much more relaxed affair, starting with another dip in the springs before making the gentle walk away from Lares along farmland towards some nearby Inca ruins.

The easy trail was a good chance to rest our legs after the demands of the previous few days, as well as catch a glimpse of rural life in the Andean pueblos that we were passing. Occasionally we came across snapshots of times gone by, a paved trail created during the days of the Inca, or a cliff-side cemetery where the bodies of nobles were buried, along with rich offerings to the same mountain gods to which Luis had prayed.

The trail eventually led us to a small village which marked the end of our trek. Here we reacquainted ourselves with the modern world (crossing a road was a novelty, the sound of a car was startling,) unloaded the mules and gave our deep and sincere thanks, along with a healthy tip, to the porters who had worked so hard to make our experience such a memorable one.

Luis stayed with us for the road journey back to Ollantaytambo, a town which had seemed so tiny five days ago, but which felt like a buzzing metropolis when we returned. Here, all that was left was to shake Luis’ hand, thank him for being such an outstanding guide, and catch the train for our much anticipated Machu Picchu tours, the final piece and pinnacle of our Sacred Valley adventure.

How Best To Enjoy Your Peru Trekking Experience:

While planning for Peru vacations, consider that operators for Peru tours and treks abound, but the quality and levels of service can be highly inconsistent. For the best standards in safety and comfort, do your research before you leave and check the online reviews for international providers of Peru vacation packages.

The Inca Trail is by far the most popular route, but the Lares trek is just one of many less-busy alternatives, including the long and spectacular Salcantay trek, or the much shorter Chacan trek.

When packing for your Peru trek, make sure to bring the following essentials:

- Waterproofs, both for yourself and for your daypack,

- Educational or healthy gifts for the kids you’re bound to meet on the way,

- Suitable water bottles or canteens for the drinking water that is usually provided,

- A head torch to keep things well lit up and your hands free,

- Plenty of good quality, warm layers that you can add and remove as the temperatures swing from very warm to freezing cold,

- A good quality, all-seasons sleeping bag and a sleeping bag liner, both of which can be hired in Cusco.

Sacred Valley tours are offered by all international Peru vacation package providers but the adventurous can easily set out alone and see the best of the Sacred Valley on a two day loop.

Inca Ingenuity at Moray, Sacred Valley, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

All of the following attractions can be visited with the universal tourist ticket boleto touristico ($40) which offers entrance to most of Cusco and the Sacred Valley’s sites.

Start from Cusco with a bus from the terminal at Puente Grau. Buses here leave for the main transport hub at Urubamba but don’t continue all the way, ask to be let off at Tiobamba where you’ll be able to catch a taxi to the fascinating Inca site at Moray.

Resembling a series of large amphitheaters, the circular agricultural terraces at Moray were actually an elaborate laboratory which created a series of micro-climates with which the ingenious Incas could determine the optimal growing conditions for all their most important crops, thus ensuring a steady supply of food for the entire empire.

A walk around Moray lasts around an hour, but on-site services are extremely limited – bring water and snacks with you.

Take the return taxi back to the main road at Tiobamba and wait for a passing bus heading on to Urubamba. There’s little reason to stay in town, you can easily switch buses and head straight on for the much more attractive town of Ollantaytambo.

This small village is one of the most picturesque settlements in the Sacred Valley, where cobbled streets and traditionally-built homes give a picture of life which has gone largely unchanged for hundreds of years.

Ollantaytambo is home to an impressive set of Inca ruins but you might want to save these for the following morning. Content yourself with a relaxing walk along the wide, fast flowing River Urubamba. Follow the trails leading up the surrounding hillsides for wonderful views over the town and the ruins.

Spend the evening enjoying the town’s small but bustling nightlife, with a great selection of restaurants and bars to choose from.

The mountainside fortress of Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

The town’s ruins open to the public at 7am which is a good time to catch the pre-tour crowd. Bilingual guides are available for around 30 soles, which are strongly recommended due to the lack of alternative information around the site.

After a couple of hours walking up and down the steep ruins and enjoying the breathtaking views, head back into town for a bite to eat at Heart’s Cafe, the profits of which go to support local community projects in the surrounding area.

After brunch, catch a bus back to the main terminal at Urubamba and switch buses for another gem, the bustling town of Pisac.

If you can time your trip, arriving in Pisac for midday Sunday will give you a memorable insight into rural Peruvian life with a massive, frenetic market where all the region’s produce goes on sale.

Stalls offering produce as diverse as coca leaves, live guinea pigs, fruits, vegetables and all kinds of meat compete with more tourist friendly stalls laden with souvenirs and holiday gifts.

Spend an hour or so exploring the enormous market before catching a taxi to the top of Pisac’s ruins, an enormous complex comprised of Incan and pre-Incan constructions, vast agricultural terraces, mountainside tunnels and temples.

Once again, a guide is recommended and give yourself at least three hours to explore the entire site.

Heading back into town, those with a strong constitution can try a glass of the local tipple, chicha, which is created by chewing and spitting corn kernels into vats for fermentation. Chicha is available from rustic outlets, usually someone’s kitchen, look out for a red flag at the front door and be prepared for lots of inquisitive attention from the locals!

If you can’t wait, have a late lunch in Pisac or else catch a direct bus back to Cusco, which should take around one hour. Settle back in to your Cusco hotel and relax after your two day adventure in the Sacred Valley!

The best Cusco hotels are concentrated in the city’s central districts so if arriving by air, take a taxi (5 soles) from the airport. Begin your stay with a visit to the city’s Plaza de Armas, the central legacy of the city’s colonial history.

A woman crosses Cusco's Plazs de Armas, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Arriving in the city in 1533, the Spanish were determined to stamp their mark on the rebellious Incas by constructing impressive monuments to European civilization on important spiritual sites. The Plaza de Armas with its dominating cathedral and plethora of other religious buildings is a prime example.

You can visit the cathedral (entrance $5) which was constructed directly atop the remains of a grand Inca palace. Inside the cathedral you will be treated to a fine display of art from the Cusco school, another remnant of the Spanish conquest which blended indigenous and European traditions, intended to assimilate European cultural dominance over indigenous civilizations.

Most of the other attractions within Cusco can only be accessed by purchasing a tourist ticket, the boleto touristico ($40) which seems expensive, but guarantees access to all of the major sites and which is valid for ten days. To get the most value from your ticket, take a Sacred Valley tour after your stay in Cusco and visit as many additional sites as possible.

Purchase your ticket from the main tourist office just one block east of the Plaze de Armas. Your ticket will be accompanied by a handy map to Cusco, with a walking tour of the main sites around the old town. Look carefully and you’ll notice that the original city layout was designed in the shape of a puma by the celebrated Inca ruler, Pachacutec.

Your walking tour begins nearby at the museum of Qorikancha, located in the basement of a former temple with a wide selection of exhibits documenting Inca life. Look out for the eerie remains of ancient mummies that were retrieved from the cemetery.

Pre-Colombian exhibits at Cusco's Qorikancha museum, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Just a short walk along from the museum is the Cosqo Center of Native Art, with a vast collection of indigenous costumes and musical instruments. If you’re lucky you’ll catch a short performance of local music and dance. Check for performance times at the front desk.

From here, follow the busy Avenida El Sol (Sun Avenue) which was named in honor of the Inca’s worship of the sun god, Inti. You’ll eventually reach a busy junction dominated by a colossal statue of the Inca leader Pachakuteq. You can climb this tower although the views of the busy streets below are not stunning – the real attraction is inside, with an illustrated history of the Inca leaders and a brief history of their vast empire.

Head back to town in the same direction and stop in at the enormous handicraft market for some great bargains on souvenirs. This is probably the cheapest place to get your hands on those famous Peruvian holiday gifts; panpipes, woolly hats, ponchos and bags made from colorful textiles and llama wool.

The market is also home to a couple of great value restaurants where you can replenish your energy with a large plate of the local specialties which include guinea pig and alpaca steaks.

Walk back to the colonial center choosing your own route through Cusco’s trademark winding, cobbled streets and take in the atmosphere of this ancient city.

If you have the energy, spend the afternoon making a short walk up to the San Blas neighborhood, perched on the hillsides above the Plaza de Armas. It is in San Blas that you’ll get a feel for Cusco’s famous vibe, where bars and cafes, restaurants and bakeries, and tiny art galleries and handicraft stalls all compete for your attention.

This is also a place to catch some great views over the city, especially towards dusk and sunset. Spend the evening in one of the many cafes and bars in San Blas, the best of which are dotted across the top of the quaint Plaza San Blas.

Rise early and enjoy breakfast in your Cusco hotel before setting off for the city’s biggest and most important archaeological site, Saqsaywaman. This Inca fortress which lies across a mountain top above Cusco has a long, and sometimes bloody, history.

Vast stonework at Saqsaywaman, Cusco, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

What remains is just a fraction of the original site but the unbelievably huge stone blocks that were perfectly carved to create the vast structure gives a clear impression of the ingenuity and might of the Inca empire.

Despite this, it was here that the Inca’s last stand against the Spanish failed after a long and dramatic siege came to an end, marking the conquistador’s final domination over this    great civilization.

Only the very fit will attempt the steep walk up to the site, everyone else will want to hail a taxi (around 10 soles from the Plaza de Armas).

On-site information is very limited so you may want to hire a guide for around 30-40 soles. Prices are negotiable and tours in Spanish will be a bit cheaper. Alternatively, most international Peru tours operators will include a professionally guided tour of this important site in their itinerary.

You can easily spend a full morning at Saqsaywaman before taking a return taxi to central Cusco for lunch in one of the cafes and restaurants on the Plaza de Armas.

Street scene in Cusco, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Museum fans can fill up on more local history and culture at the excellent Museum of Contemporary Art and the Museum of Regional History, both to the south of the Plaza. Otherwise spend a leisurely afternoon exploring the city’s back streets where glimpses of a former age are to be found everywhere – not least in the traditionally dressed women and girls posing for photos with their pet llamas (you’ll be expected to pay 1 sole for the privilege though!)

Enjoy a final evening in Cusco’s historical center, where all the most important and impressive buildings are well illuminated for extra effect. Treat yourself with dinner at Sumaq Misky on the main Plaza which serves up some of the finest food in town before heading out to enjoy the vibrant nightlife, or catching an early night’s sleep before leaving for your next Peru vacation destination.

The beautiful Peruvian flag

The holiday sees public buildings decked in the national colors and celebrations across the country, making it an exciting time to visit during a Peru vacation. Come prepared though: this is a busy time for tourism and Peru hotels and transportation both become booked up quickly. Plan ahead and Independence Day will be a rewarding Peru travel experience.

Known as the Fiestas Patrias Peruanas, the holiday falls every 28 & 29 July and offers a chance for the country to unite in celebration of the victorious Wars of Independence and the country’s armed forces.

Throughout July on the run-up to the holiday, the red and white national flag becomes a ubiquitous sight, while immediately before the holiday public parks and plazas across the country become stages for impromptu performances of criolla folkloric musical performances.

As the holiday itself begins a number of official and ceremonial acts are fulfilled in Lima by the country’s leaders, including a symbolic journey by the President to the Congress of the Republic where he delivers his Address to the Nation, his account of the country’s progress over the past 12 months.

On the second day, the Archbishop of Lima performs Mass to an audience of leaders and national dignitaries before the Great Military Parade begins. The Parade through central Lima is a patriotic display of the country’s military and is intended to instill pride and a sense of the nation’s strength.

For those less interested in military displays, the Fiestas Patrias Peruanas are accompanied by some of the most enthusiastic partying in the annual calendar. Outside of Lima, celebrations are also often tinged with local customs and indigenous traditions.

Ever keen to rival the capital, Peru’s second city Arequipa puts on an equally grand display with street processions and parties, with music and dance that lasts late into the night.

Cuzco's Plaza de Armas, Peru

In Cusco, foreign and national tourists enjoy street parties, fireworks and plenty of pisco while in Cajamarca, Independence Day coincides with a major livestock and agricultural fair with cockfighting, bull running and displays of the fine Peruvian paso horse.

If you’re lucky to coincide your Peru vacation with Fiestas Patrias Peruanas, you’re sure to witness a spectacle which will offer you a special insight into the national character. To get the most out of the occasion, bear in mind the following tips:

Most Peru hotels will be booked in advance so if you’re traveling independently, make sure you book ahead for the 28 & 29 July.

Banks and other essential services will be closed for the holiday, so don’t be caught short without any cash.

Transport schedules shouldn’t change, but fares may rise and tickets will be booked up in advance.

When in a large crowd anywhere in the world, use sensible caution to avoid the small risk of being pick-pocketed. Wear bags on your chest and keep valuables in inside pockets or money belts.

Occurring on the Winter Solstice of the Southern Hemisphere, the celebration brings together thousands of worshipers from Peru who join those travelers fortunate enough to time their Peru vacations with this ancient Inca ceremony with roots dating as far back as the 13th century.

Festivities at the Peru's sun god festival, Inti Raymi

Considered the most important ceremony of the Inca Empire, the rituals that take place during the event are re-created thanks to the oral histories and memories of local people which have kept the traditions alive for centuries.

The Inca religion, which is focused on a worship of nature, saw the sun as the most important aspect of daily life. Though he was second in importance to Viracocha, the creator of civilization, Inti the Sun God received the most offerings–most especially from farmers who depended on the sun for their harvest. The ruler of the Inca people, Sapa Inca, claimed divine heritage as a direct descendant of Inti.

This devotion and faith to the deity led to the creation of Inti Raymi, which means “resurrection of the sun” in Quechua. Back then, preparation for the festival began with a fast of three days. People fasted from nourishment, as well as refrained from sexual activities and were also not allowed to light fires.

Preparations were carried out in Aucaypata Square, which today is located in Cusco’s main square and was larger than it is today. Inca priests and nobility gathered here, all dressed in their most elegant-wear. Once the sun arrived–a special representation consisting of a golden sculpture–Sapa Inca offered two golden tumblers. Right afterwards, he, the priests and spectators made their way to Qorikancha and called for the blessings of the sun god with yet more offerings.

They then made their way back to the square for the ceremony in which they sacrificed a llama. Today the sacrifice is only simulated, but then, the High Priest had to kill the completely black or white llama by using the ceremonial knife known as “Tumi”. Things got a little gory then when the priest had to open the animal’s chest and pull out its heart and viscera. He then foretold the future by looking at these entrails before lighting a sacred fire. His fellow priests would continue the ceremony by offering Sanqhu–a holy bread–made of corn flower and blood from the sacrificed animal.

The ceremony marked the end of the year and the beginning of the new one. And so began the celebration and feast, where attendees drank, danced and reveled for several days.

With the arrival of the Spanish conquistadores, Inca traditions and practices were quickly repressed and the Inti Raymi celebrations were outlawed by the Viceroy of Francisco de Toledo who decreed them to be pagan and contrary to the Catholic religion. The last festival with the Inca Emperor’s presence was in 1535.

Today, the celebration itself is a one-day event held on the day of the winter solstice, according to the Pacha Unachaq–the sundial used by the Incas. However the days leading up to and after this special day are filled with events such as street fairs, concerts, exhibitions and more, all in Cusco city. The big day falls on the 24th for Inti Raymi which is considered the second biggest festival in Latin America, trailing right behind Rio’s Carnival.

The view from Sacsayhuamán at the Inti Raymi festival, Peru

For the past half century, the festival hasn’t taken place in its original location in Cusco’s main square, but at the archaeological complex of Sacsayhuamán (Sacred House of the Sun) located a few minutes away from the city center. Thousands come to witness the ceremony, and more than 500 actors take part in the reenactment of the rituals.

Once all spectators have reached the Sacsayhuamán fortress and Sapa Inca has made his way from Qorikancha to the hilltop, the nobility, priests and of course, Sapa Inca, all give speeches in the native language of the Incas, Quechua. The ceremony ends with a procession back to Cusco, where Sapa Inca and his wife and sister, Mama Occla, are carried back down on their thrones, proclaiming the beginning of the new year.

Here are some things to keep in mind if you plan to make it to next year’s Inti Raymi festival:

The festival is an all-day event, with at least five hours spent at Sacsayhuamán. Entry is free and you’re able to rent chairs, but if you want a reserved seat, you must do so in advance.

This article by Peru For Less’ Diana Olano originally appeared on the Living In Peru website: www.livinginperu.com