The lake is the highest navigated area of water in the world and is one of the largest. What makes the lake so attractive are the amazingly crafted Islands of Uros, created out of locally grown tortoa reed in a process that has been passed down from generation to generation.

Tortoa reeds of Lake Titicaca.

The lake is easily accessible from Cusco and there are two primary transport options between Cusco and the principle city in the area, Puno. You can travel either by train or by bus. You can fly, but it would involve a connection in Lima.

The bus from Cusco to Puno takes between and 8 and 9 hours and makes various stops along the way at archaeological sites, as well as at rest-stops and restaurants.

The train ride is slightly longer – some 10 hours – but while the bus features first class accommodations for a vehicle of its variety, the first class accommodations on the train are significantly more opulent with lounge-chair seating, fine china and silverware used for first-rate, delicious meals, and a lookout-car, where guests can leisurely enjoy the scenery of the Peruvian highlands.

While the more luxurious train makes no stops, shorter bus ride to Puno does make several pauses along the way. Tourists traveling by bus normally enjoy bilingual guided stops at the following locations along the route:

• Andahuaylillas: known as the “Sixteenth Chapel of the Americas,” this church features an exhibition of colonial art work dating back to the XVI and XVII century. (Entrance fee: US $1.5/person)
• Raqchi: This is the temple dedicated to God Wiracocha, supreme God of the Incas. (Entrance fee: US$2/person)
• Sicuani: Here guests will be able to rest and enjoy an Andean buffet lunch
• La Raya: This is the highest point of the trip, where guests will be able to appreciate snow-peaked mountains, alpacas and the amazing scenery of the Andean countryside.
• Pukara: This is ancient archaeological complex constructed in a grand pyramidal shape dating as far back as 4,000 B.C. (entrance fee $2)

By travelling by bus, the journey normally includes snacks and on board hostess assistance.

For more cautious travelers a key advantage of bus transport is that you embark and disembark from a private bus station in both cities as opposed to a public train station.

The mode of transport you choose to take depends on your personal preference.

However many people talk about how spectacular the views are along the train route, especially as you approach Lake Titicaca.

With the trains fired up and shuttling visitors back into the mountains and up to Machu Picchu, things are looking normal again in the Cusco region. The damage from this year’s unusually wet rainy season was a big disappointment to travelers in February and March and a disaster for the small villages and business in the area. However, poco a poco, things are turning around with the reopening of the trains, and smiling faces are filling the streets of this historic city.

Machu Picchu and Cusco Reopen Again

Cusco, which had turned into a virtual ghost-town with the closing of Machu Picchu, has been ferrying visitors back and forth from the ruins in almost-normal fashion and memories of the harsh rainstorms just a few months back are fading from people’s minds.
In fact, the weather has been so stunning this month, it is hard to believe the hard rains ever came at all. These days, bright sunshine and clear blue skies are accompanying most tourists on their journey to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.

“We couldn’t have asked for better weather on our visit to Machu Picchu. Exploring the ruins was such an experience, I feel so fortunate to have visited such an amazing place.” one Peru For Less traveler told me last week.

With the re-opening of Machu Picchu, the famous Inca Trail trekking route has also once again been bearing hikers’ footsteps. Crossing “Dead Woman’s Pass” and snaking through the ruins of Intipata, hikers are passing through the Sun Gate to descend upon Machu Picchu from above, with a sense of accomplishment lightening their steps.

For now, trains are busy running from a small outpost called Piscacucho, also known as Kilometer 82, to Aguas Calientes, the small town just below Machu Picchu. While at the beginning of April the train companies were running five trains a day, the number has quickly jumped to 14 between Peru Rail and Inca Rail, allowing far more flexibility and access to the ruins.

“Things are looking better and better and we are hoping to have trains running the normal route from Ollantaytambo in July. Clients are coming back from Machu Picchu feeling really good about their trip.” said Peru For Less’ Cusco Operations Manager, Caitlin Ham.  “Having the trains eventually running from Ollantaytambo will cut out some of the longer bus rides that visitors are currently taking.”

Regardless of the journey, the prize at the end is still the same. Machu Picchu is a remarkable destination that is once again welcoming visitors through its majestic gates and on the journey of a lifetime.

Soon to open... Machu Picchu

Peru For Less, along with our partners at Peru Rail and the Peruvian tourism authorities, are delighted to announce the much anticipated reopening of Machu Picchu.

Confirmation has been received that rail access to the base town of Aguas Calientes is due to be restored by 29 March, with the site itself being reopened on 1 April.

Following flooding earlier this year, engineers have repaired vital sections of train line, meaning that access is now possible by bus from Cusco or Ollantaytambo to Piscacucho, followed by train to Aguas Calientes.

A number of temporary measures remain in place: certain classes of train are restricted for weight reasons, meaning that only 5 Vistadome train services can run per day.

For this reason, Peru For Less is advising travelers to consider traveling from 5 April onwards. We are also pointing out that due to the limited availability of seats, not all first choice of schedules can be guaranteed.

Peru For Less is advising clients that the final section of road between Ollantaytambo and Piscacucho is unpaved and rough, although has been declared safe for use.

Peru Rail is operating the bus connections and is transferring all prior rail tickets to the new bus service. The company expects to have restored normal rail access by July.

Although Peru For Less is confident in these plans to restore access to Machu Picchu, we are keen to highlight the importance of purchasing travel insurance to cover any changes or cancellations to travel plans.

The following information should help clients with their travel plans. For any additional questions, please contact a Travel Advisor on travel@peruforless.com or 1-817-230-4971

Map

Peru Rail Route from Cusco to Machu Picchu

Schedules

Cusco to Machu Picchu Tempoary Schedule - Valid From March 29th to April 30th 2010

Machu Picchu to Cusco Tempoary Schedule - Valid From March 29th to April 30th 2010

Frequently Asked Questions

Are the roads that we will use to reach the train safe?

The road from Cusco to Ollantaytambo is a paved, well-maintained and scenic road that is perfectly comfortable and safe to use.

The road from Ollantaytambo to Piscacucho is unpaved and therefore a bumpier, less comfortable ride, but is also declared safe to use.

How long will it take to reach Machu Picchu this way?

According to the temporary schedule (see above), a transport leaving Cusco at 6am will arrive at Aguas Calientes by 9:31am.

Will this travel arrangement shorten our time in Machu Picchu?

Unfortunately, yes. Availability of seats is out of Peru For Less’ control, but we will do our best to secure our clients the best and most convenient tickets. For those who want to make the most of their visit, it’s possible to book an extra day in Machu Picchu. Please talk to your travel advisor for further details.

Please note that all information is provided by Peru Rail and the Peruvian authorities, and remains subject to change. Peru For Less endeavors to provide accurate and up-to-the-minute information but cannot be held responsible for information changes beyond our control. This page will be updated with new information as it becomes available.

The famous view of Machu Picchu, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

By far the most convenient way to visit Machu Picchu is with a provider of Peru vacation packages, but for the most adventurous and those with a decent grasp of Spanish, it’s possible to find your own way there and track down a guide on the day.

Since its re-discovery in 1911 by Hiram Bingham, an American explorer working for Yale University, Machu Picchu has become the stuff of legends; an iconic image in the minds of millions, with all its connotations of adventure, exploration and mythical ancient history.

Surprisingly though, the reality of Machu Picchu is much more down-to-earth. Recent archeological investigations have suggested that the site was not a center of spiritual and religious importance, as was previously assumed.

In fact, some archeologists are now suggesting that Machu Picchu was originally intended as a center of learning, a kind of Inca University or better yet, a grand and very elaborate holiday resort for the empire’s nobility.

Nevertheless, it remains undisputed that Machu Picchu is one of the best preserved, most intriguing, and jaw-droppingly beautiful archeological sites in South America and the entire world.

Part of the citadel’s allure has always been its inaccessibility, located deep within Peru’s Sacred Valley, surrounded by unforgiving mountains and plunging valleys complete with dense sub-tropical forest and gushing rivers.

Mountains and jungle behind the walls of Machu Picchu, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

Thankfully, accessing the site these days is much easier, not least due to the train line which was extended to the modern town of Aguas Calientes at the mountain base. It is now possible to arrive at Aguas Calientes by train, spend the night in this busy, tourism-oriented town and catch an early morning bus up to the citadel itself the following day.

Most visitors are keen to arrive at Machu Picchu as early as possible, and although the first bus ($14 return) departs at around 5:30am, the keenest are in the queue from as early as 3am.

Taking things this seriously is probably only worthwhile if you intend to climb Machu Picchu’s sister mountain, Huayna Picchu on the same day: entrance is limited to 400 people per day and tickets sell out very early. Otherwise, aim to be in the queue from around 5am and you’ll still be able to make an early bus and catch the citadel before most of the crowds arrive.

Before reaching the ticket office you’ll find a number of guides ($15-20 for 2.5 hours) most of who tend to be very professional and knowledgeable, although the standard of English can be inconsistent. Information inside the site is non-existent, and for this reason alone, consider booking your trip in advance with a Peru tours operator with a guaranteed standard of tour guide.

Most guided tours last for around two and a half hours and will include a comprehensive circuit of the site. You’ll start at the Watchman’s Hut, which offers the best views of the site (the ones that are on all the postcards) before making your way towards the northern, and highest, edge of the citadel where some of the most important relics remain: the Temple of the Three Windows, the main temple, the Intihuatana (sun rock) and the Sacred Rock, all of which line the central, grassy main plaza.

Recent progress in the field of astro-archeology has revealed a great many new lessons in the nature and layout of Machu Picchu, and your guide will be able to point out some of the many alignments of these important points with the stars and the solar system.

Of particular significance are the points on the surrounding mountains that align with the citadel during important solar-phases, including the summer and winter solstice.

In addition, along the opposite mountain ranges to the south, you’ll be able to see the last stages of the celebrated Inca Trail, as it leads down from the Sun Gate towards Machu Picchu itself.

Once your tour is complete, you have the option to walk the ‘wrong way’ up the Inca Trail towards the Sun Gate, where you’ll be rewarded with a different (and much less crowded) perspective on the site.

Alternatively, you can make the short hike to the Intipata, or Inca bridge, around 45 minutes away from Machu Picchu. The bridge is constructed along the face of a cliff and offers some stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Unfortunately the bridge itself has been closed to the public for safety reasons.

Sunset over Machu Picchu, Peru. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

If you have the time, consider sticking around for the rest of the day, and relax in one of Machu Picchu’s quieter corners. There is just one thing as impressive as sun-rise over the citadel: sun-set.

While visiting Machu Picchu, be sure to remember the following considerations:

- The citadel is a protected site of significant historical importance. For this reason strict restrictions exist on what can be taken into the site, including plastic bottles, metal-tipped walking poles and large backpacks (these can be stored at the ticket office for $.50)

- On-site services including toilets, food and drinks are non-existent and outside the ticket office, the prices are high. But you are permitted to bring your own food and drink in a small day-sack.

- Peak visiting time is from around 10am to mid-afternoon. Before and after these times, the crowds are much thinner, and the queues for the return bus journey are much shorter.

Sure, our Peru vacations have to include Machu Picchu tours as a must-see. But for those with more time to spare and a keen interest in Peru’s long and fascinating ancient history, consider a visit to some of these alternative archeological spots to broaden your Peru travel experience.

The Kuelap Fortress near the Chachapoyas region of northern Peru

Kuelap Fortress

Near Chachapoyas, northern Peru

Created towards the end of AD 900 and taking several hundred years to finish, the vast fortress at Kuelap is a perfect example of the sophistication and might of the pre-Inca Chachapoyas civilization.

The fortress itself occupies an enormous surface area, over one kilometer long and rivaling the size of almost all other ancient structures in the Americas. At 3000 meters above sea-level, the fortress was once an enormous symbol of power that dominated the Utcubamba Valley.

The site contains the remains of some 400 structures, most of which are in a ruined state although some reconstruction work has taken place, to give visitors an idea of the site’s former glory.

The fortress occupies a green, lush landscape and many of the walls contain original decorations. In certain areas, the local style of constructing spherical buildings was replaced by the Incan rectangular style, suggesting a long-forgotten history of war and conquest.

Access to the site is tricky but can be easily arranged by a Peru tours operator.

Entrance $3.

The unique Chan Chan Ruins near Trujillo, Peru (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Chan Chan

Trujillo, northern Peru

Further south from Kuelap, on Peru’s northern coastal plain near the city of Trujillo, is the ancient city of Chan Chan, a World Heritage Site that is thought to be the largest ancient city in the Americas.

Constructed entirely from adobe, the city has been remarkably well preserved thanks to the arid desert environment which is only threatened by occasional El Niño tornados.

The city was constructed by the Chimu civilization between AD 800 and 900 and thrived with tens of thousands of inhabitants until the Incas arrived in the mid 15^th century.

The remaining structures consist of ceremonial buildings, graves and tombs, religious structures and dwellings. The city was carefully planned to exploit the weather and sunlight as well as to provide protection against the coastal winds. Its tall walls give the city a maze-like feel and the many wall carvings and decorations reveal an intricate and masterly level of craftsmanship.

Access to Chan Chan is easy from the city and transport hub of Trujillo and guided tours can be arranged.

Entrance $3.50.

Caral: The oldest city of the Americas, near Barranca, Peru

Caral

Near Barranca, north of Lima

Around 200 km north of Lima lies the oldest city in the Americas, the monumental desert city of Caral.

A city-state which developed during the same time of the civilizations of the “old” world, Mesopotamia, Egypt, India and China, recent discoveries at Caral have overturned many previously accepted theories of ancient history and the rise of human civilization.

The site was re-discovered during the mid 20^th century but received very little attention due to the relative lack of retrievable artifacts. It was only with detailed investigation that the complexity of Caral’s pyramids and other structures including temples and an amphitheatre was revealed.

Likewise, a number of discoveries have revealed a complexity to ancient civilization that archeologists long assumed never existed this early in the Americas. Finds revealed that the Caral people were a peaceful civilization who had developed advanced systems for trading and accounting.

Depictions of monkeys and other jungle animals suggest that the Caral people had trading links that reached far into the Amazon, discoveries that have forced scholars to rethink many long-held beliefs about Peruvian ancient history.

Tours to Caral can be arranged from Lima or by any international Peru tours operator.

Entrance $3.

Tucume

Near Chiclayo, northern Peru

The site of Tucume is another ancient pyramid complex which spans several hundred acres and includes several dozen structures and man made hills. The site was the scene for several successions of civilizations and was originally inhabited from around AD 800 by the Sican people, followed by the Chimu, before the Incas arrived in the mid 15^th century.

Many local folkloric tales add to the site’s sense of mystery, known locally as “Purgatory” from the Spanish attempt to convert indigenous people to Christianity by constructing fires atop the mounds and claiming it to be purgatory itself.

To this day, many superstitious locals refuse to visit the site but access is easy from the town of Chiclayo.

Entrance $2.

Batan Grande

Also near Chiclayo, northern Peru

Also established by the Sican people, Batan Grande is the source of the vast majority of ancient Peru’s golden artifacts as well as home to dozens of pyramids dating from around AD 800.

The site is now a national park and includes an ancient stretch of the Pomac Forest which offers a tranquil and relaxing environment, plus opportunities for horse riding and camping.

There is also a good museum which provides a fascinating insight into ancient life in this region.

To get to the site, take a taxi or bus from Chiclayo.

Entrance $3.

“We returned on Tuesday evening from our wonderful trip.  Thanks for all the help in planning it and all the decisions you helped us make.  The guides were wonderful, especially Rodrigo in Quito and Ronnie for the Sacred Valley.  Ronnie was really good, informative, great sense of humor and very knowledgeable.  Miguel in Lima was also good and very helpful!

“The boat, the Galapagos Legend was great, very well managed and organized and we were constantly in awe of what we saw and the experiences we had.

“Machu Picchu was so amazing, even with all the pictures we had seen, we were not prepared for the sheer wonder of it all.

Mr Bromberg's group enjoy the view at Machu Picchu, Peru

“Everything went like clockwork, all was very well planned and organized and great choices were made by you for us.  Everyone was lovely, kind and very helpful!

“In fact everyone we met was wonderful, eager to help, tell us about their country and make us feel at home.  It was a wonderful, once in a life time trip!”