The Sun Shines Over Peru's Glorious Lake Titicaca. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2009

The lake, the largest in South America and one of the highest navigable bodies of water on Earth, plays a central role in the mythical traditions of ancient Andean civilization. The Inca based the legend of their very creation on this inland ocean. It was from these waters that Viracoca, the God of Creation, emerged to create the sun and the moon, as well as mankind, and it was from here that the Inca began their long conquest of the Andes.

Stepping into this ethereal, high altitude world, where even the sunlight seems to shine with an unreal glow, it’s easy to see why ancient civilizations attached such importance to the lake. Not only is Lake Titicaca overwhelmingly beautiful, it’s also an abundant cradle of life, an environment that has sustained numerous tides of civilization over its long history.

Lake Titicaca today is an enormously popular Peru travel destination, drawing a steady stream of visitors year round. Using the city of Puno as a convenient base, it’s easy to discover some of the enchanting islands that make the lake such a unique place:

Uros

The artificial islands of Uros are one of the most unusual and interesting aspects of the lake. For centuries the Uros people have lived on these man-made floating islands, built entirely from the Tortuga reeds which grow in Titicaca in such abundance.

Originally built as an ingenious solution to aggression from the neighboring Aymara tribes, the islands provide a self-contained refuge with everything the Uros need to survive. Youngsters search for bird’s eggs within the reed forests, the men hunt and fish, while the women use the reeds to construct virtually anything, from the islands and houses themselves to impressive double-story boats capable of holding a dozen people.

The islanders are hospitable and welcoming to visitors. During your tour you will be able to meet community members who are happy to describe their unique way of life and show you round their island. It’s even possible to stay overnight in a small hostel, although most travelers prefer to move on to more comfortable accommodations elsewhere.

The Floating Islands of Uros on Peru's Lake Titicaca. Photograph: Matthew Barker 2010

Taquile

Compared to Uros, the island of Taquile is a metropolis, albeit one with no roads, cars and only intermittent electricity. All the same, the island is home to several thousand residents and is famed for its rich weaving and textile traditions. Islanders are famed for their extravagant clothing, with colorfully embroidered waistcoats, blouses and billowing skirts a common sight, as well as the ubiquitous wool hats. You can get to know this long history of expert weaving in the island’s small but interesting textile museum.

There are also a number of Inca-era ruins on the island, but the Taquile’s real attractions are the jaw-dropping vistas of vast expanses of shimmering water and the snow-capped mountains in the distance. Travelers can enjoy the views during long walks along the many trails that snake along the island’s 3.5 mile length, or from the highpoint of the island which measures over 13,000 feet above sea level.

Suasi

After exploring the relatively large Taquile, the island of Suasi appears as a microscopic dot in the vastness of Lake Titicaca. Suasi is a beautifully tranquil place to relax and enjoy the serenity. There are no permanent residents living here – other than a small herd of camelids, and it’s possible to cross the entire breadth of the island in less than thirty minutes.

Suasi is also one of the few private islands on the lake, accessible only to guests of the island’s single lodge, making this perhaps the most serene place in all of Lake Titicaca. But despite its diminutive size, the island packs a great number of activities and adventures for the visitor, from hiking the trails to sailing the surrounding waters, or simply enjoying the lodge’s spa. But the biggest treat is saved for night time, when under the blackness of night, nature’s spectacular light show of countless stars illuminates the entire island.

Islands Further Afield

Some of the lake’s other islands are much less visited and can be reached by local boat services from Puno. Amantani is one such island, home to several interesting archeological sites, while the island of Anapia is hidden way off in the lake’s far southern waters.

Meanwhile, on the Bolivian side of the lake are a duo if incredibly important islands, the Isla del Sol and Isla del Luna. It is actually on these islands that the Inca creation legends emerged and the islands are home to a fascinating complex of ruins and small settlements.

It is possible to hike along the route of an ancient pilgrimage, formally only open to the highest ranking of the Inca nobility, a trail that curves along the highest point of the Isla del Sol and passes some of the island’s numerous ruins. Reaching the Bolivian islands is possible on trips directly from Puno.

Based on feedback from returning clients, Peru For Less has compiled the following list of Machu Picchu Travel Alternatives.

Machu Picchu travel alternatives, from Peru For Less

Tipon-Piquillajta-Andahuaylillas Day Tour

This series of lesser-known and under visited ruins just west of Cusco offer a fascinating insight into the size and strength of the Inca Empire, as well as features and a history that aren’t to be found at the more famous citadel of Machu Picchu.

The ruins of Tipon are thought to be an ancient Inca palace and are home to elaborately engineered waterways, baths and fountains, plus a functioning irrigation system that reveals the ingenuity of the Inca’s engineers.

From here it’s a short journey to Piquillajta, which was originally a pre-Inca ruin from the Wari civilization and was probably conquered and re-settled by the Inca as their empire expanded. A tour of Piquillajta gives an interesting history of the growth of the empire, and how the Inca were able to incorporate previously independent civilizations into their own.

Eventually your tour brings you to a Colonial-era archeological gem, known as the
“Andean Sistine Chapel,” the 17^th century church at Andahuaylillas is famous for its beautiful decorations and unique interior design. The church’s intriguing décor, complete with graphical depictions of the routes to heaven and hell, glittering golden gilding and a blend of Christian and indigenous iconography all reflect early attempts by the Spanish to convert the locals to Christianity.

Peru Adventure Trek to Choquequirao

The Inca Trail is closed for routine maintenance every February and may remain closed into March this year, but that doesn’t mean that lovers of the great outdoors cannot enjoy the Cusco region’s unrivaled trekking opportunities.

Machu Picchu travel alternatives: the ruins of Choquequirao

One of the most dramatic (and least visited) alternative Inca Trail treks is the four day hike to Choquequirao, a challenging route that is rewarded with a visit to the magnificent ruins of Choquequirao; a huge and deeply impressive site that receives a fraction of Machu Picchu’s annual visitor numbers.

The trek crosses a range of environments, beginning in the rolling fields and small farming settlements of the sierra before entering the savage Apurimac valley with the river thundering several thousand feet below. The trail drops almost 5,000 feet to river level and the following day climbs immediately back up an equivalent distance back up the steep valley walls.

Eventually entering Choquequirao itself is well worth the challenge, especially since yours may well be the only group in the entire site. It takes at least a full day to explore the ruins in their entirety, and of particular note are the enormous complexes of agricultural terraces, some of which were decorated with unique patterns and designs that are not found in any other Andean site.

The route back from Choquequirao follows a different trail, entering the more humid semi-tropical environment of the high-jungle, where parakeets and tarantulas are a common sight and the trees drip with tropical fruits such as mangoes and avocados. After spending the third night on the grounds of an old Colonial hacienda, the trail re-enters the rolling landscapes of the first day before rejoining road transport for the journey back to Cusco.

Sacred Valley Day Tour

The beautiful Sacred Valley that runs away from the city of Cusco along the line of the Urubamba river (and past Machu Picchu, eventually) is home to a huge number of ancient settlements and towns, ruins and glorious landscapes.

Ruins of Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley

It is possible to take a day tour of the Sacred Valley’s highlights, starting from and returning to Cusco. Tours start early and descend through unchanged landscapes into the Valley itself before reaching the town of Ollantaytambo.

Olltantaytambo is one of the oldest continually inhabited towns in the Andes and people have been living here since at least the 13^th century.  The town is characterized by ancient stone houses built in the trademark style of the Inca, winding cobbled streets bisected by atmospheric flowing rivers and of course the hillside fortress ruins that look over the entire settlement.

The ruins are not particularly large but they have a fascinating history, as the location of a great Inca victory over the Spanish conquistadores, which almost caused the invasion to fail.

After touring the town and the ruins, it’s a short journey to the next destination, the buzzing town of Pisac. It is well worth timing your tour to coincide with market day on Sunday when the entire town comes alive with campesinos descending from the surrounding hills to sell their wares and stock up on provisions. You’ll see everything on sale, from live chickens to coca leaves, as well as a large selection of handicrafts which make ideal souvenirs.

You also have the option to visit Pisac ruins, much larger than at Ollantaytambo and dominating a breathtaking location on the hilltops above the town. The trail around the site runs above steep hillsides and deep ravines, allowing stunning views of the entire valley. A visit to the ruins is available on request.

From Pisac, it’s just a short drive through yet more stunning scenery back to the city of Cusco.

Other sites and excursions in the Sacred Valley

There are a huge number of other tours and excursions available in the Cusco and Sacred Valley region:

A tour of the ruins at Moras & Moray: known as the research laboratories of the Inca, the circular agricultural terraces at Moray were used to examine the full range of growing conditions and environments across the Inca Empire, ensuring that food was never scarce and the entire empire was well fed.

A rafting trip down the Urubamba River is guaranteed to excite and is ideal for beginner rafters with no previous experience. Trips last around 2 hours and range from class 2 and 3 rapids.

The countryside surrounding Cusco is perfect for horseback riding tours, exploring a beautiful landscape which is dotted with villages and settlements where life has changed little over the centuries.

For further information on any of these tours and more, contact a Peru For Less travel advisor at any time, on travel@peruforless.com or 1-817-230-4971.

LAN Peru has announced the new service from San Francisco to Lima, which brings an additional benefit to connecting passengers traveling from destinations throughout the continent, including Santiago, Chile, Sao Paulo, Brazil and Buenos Aires, Argentina.

The new service brings LAN Airlines’ total number of US gateways to four, joining New York, Los Angeles and Miami.

The route is good news to travelers planning Peru vacations, and will also help visitors experience any number of other important South America vacation destinations, such as Iguazu Falls, Patagonia and Easter Island.

For further information on the new flights, see the LAN Peru website: www.lan.com or to book a Peru vacation package, contact a Peru For Less travel advisor.

With such attention on some of South America’s most spectacular sights, we thought we’d give a Latin America For Less guide to visiting each place that is in contention for the title of South America’s most important Natural Wonder.

Cruising the Tambopata River in Peru's Amazon rainforest

The Amazon rainforest is currently ranked in first place as South America’s most important natural wonder. It is the biggest forest in the world and is home to the single greatest concentration of life on the planet: one tenth of the planet’s species are found right here, in the Amazon.

Visiting the Amazon has become increasingly easy in recent years, especially during a Brazil or a Peru vacation, and thanks to the growth of eco-tourism, it’s now possible to visit the rainforest while causing minimal disruption to the pristine environment.

Where To Go

There are many options for exploring the Peruvian Amazon, but the three most popular entrance points are Iquitos, Puerto Maldonado and Manu.

Iquitos, the world’s largest city not accessible by road, is a genuine frontier outpost deep in the wilderness. You can only get here by air or a long boat journey, but once you’ve arrived you will discover a truly unique tropical city, with entire neighborhoods of house boats floating on the river, restaurants serving exotic and delicious jungle delicacies, a lively night scene, and plenty of jungle lodges dotted up and downstream, offering a chance to get up close and personal with the wildlife.

Puerto Maldonado meanwhile is a more accessible but somewhat less intriguing town. The appeal of this ramshackle settlement is its proximity to Cusco, another popular Peru vacation destination. Travelers can leave Cusco in the morning and by mid-afternoon be settled in to their tranquil jungle lodge, a long way from civilization.

Finally, the Manu reserve on the eastern flanks of the Andes is some of the most remote and least accessible stretch of jungle in Peru. This is a vast region of protected land, and is a paradise for the jungle’s many native species of creatures, especially birds. A visit to Manu offers a genuine taste of jungle life, one of the few remaining places with large populations of large mammals, including jaguars, anteaters and tapirs.

All three destinations offer similar standards of lodges, although the range in Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado is much broader than in Manu.

However, visitors should bear in mind that Iquitos is a large city, with plenty of economic activity focused around the river. Its size and unique atmosphere make it an interesting Peru travel destination in its own right, but also means that the nearby jungle is not a great place for wildlife spotting. You need to journey for several hours, preferably upriver, to get into untouched territory.

Finally, throughout the Amazon, certain restaurants serve questionable produce, including endangered or threatened species such as paiche (an enormous fish), turtle, and caiman. Although it is technically illegal to serve these species, the law is largely un-enforced, but visitors should consult their conscience before indulging.

Peruvians have always been proud of their unique cultural fusion – the merging of Hispanic with traditional Andean societies, along with a healthy dose of Afro-Caribbean influence as well as the countless indigenous communities of the selva, the deep Amazon jungle.

The most famous outcome of this cultural melting pot has been Peruvian criollo cuisine, a treat for anyone enjoying a Peru travel experience. But the fusion is expressed in many other forms, in particular the country’s rich music and dance traditions, which come under the spotlight during this time of year, as the Peruvian winter fades into the long, sultry summer.

A major event is la Dia de la Cancion Criolla, or the Day of the Creole Song, a major national event on 31 October that is most prominent in the music loving coastal towns and cities.

Much of this music was influenced by the descendants of African slaves, and is characterized by lively, fast rhythms and fun, flirtatious dancing. Popular instruments are the guitar and the cajón, a rectangular wooden box that is played as a percussion instrument by fast-handed drummers with perfect timing.

The Day of the Creole Song is a major celebration right along Peru’s central coast but is less prominent in highland or jungle communities, where other forms of indigenous music are more popular.

For the best celebrations, head to Lima, Trujillo, Ica or Chiclayo. Celebrations tend to be focused around the towns’ central Plaza de Armas, and the numerous bars and peñas nearby, although in Lima, some of the best events are to be found in the southern districts of Surco and Barranco.

The event makes for great memories during Peru vacations, but come prepared for loud, boisterous and raucous celebrations, especially as the sun goes down and the proceedings become more alcohol fuelled. For the most authentic experiences, go with some Peruvian friends.

A couple of weeks after the Day of the Creole Song festival and another big criollo event comes to Peru, the Festival de Danzas Negras, in the town of Chincha, just south of Lima.

Playing the Canjon in Chincha, Peru. Photograph: Creative Commons

Chincha, in particular the neighborhood of El Carmen, is home to one of Peru’s most distinct and vibrant Afro Peruano communities. Mostly descended from slaves brought from Africa to work on coastal cotton plantations, the community of El Carmen has retained its rich identity, which is celebrated every November with a major dance festival, attracting visitors from across the country, especially Lima folk looking for a weekend break on the coast.

The festival usually occurs over the first weekend of November. It’s easy to get to Chincha and El Carmen by bus from Lima, a journey that takes around two hours. Hotels in the area are likely to get booked up fairly quickly so either make reservations ahead or arrive early to get a decent room.

The capital city Lima is arguably the best place to head to sample Peruvian fare, where there are countless eateries that tempt travelers and locals alike with an array of succulent Peruvian dishes.

Ceviche, made from raw fish marinated in lime juice, a typically Limeño dish to enjoy on a Peru vacation

A recent article in the New York Times threw the spotlight over small family run restaurants in Lima – or huariques – as being an inexpensive option for tasting typical Peruvian dishes.

Often operating behind closed doors, the owners of huariques specialize in preparing one or two single recipes that have been handed down through their families for generations. These recipes originate from anywhere between Japan and Africa, yet they always make full use of ingredients found on the Peruvian coast, mountains and jungle.

The atmosphere of huariques, reports the NYT, can be rustic and informal, but the food is no less delicious; such favorites as Ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime and chilli), Anticuchos (succulent skewered beef heart) and Lomo Saltado (stir fried beef sirloin with onion, chilli peppers, tomatoes and French fries) are sometimes of better quality than even the finest restaurants in Peru.

Unfortunately for those who travel to Lima, huariques can be difficult to track down, or are not always available at the desired time. Luckily there are a whole host of quality Lima restaurants that give travelers the opportunity to indulge in some delicious Peruvian cuisine.

Latin America For Less Director and Peru cuisine fanatic, Bernard Schleien

Asked to detail some of the finest restaurants in Lima, Latin America For Less Director Bernard Schleien was eager to point out a few of his favorites:

Astrid y Gaston: Finest restaurant in Peru and probably among the finest in the world. Peruvian and international food. This is a highly acclaimed restaurant with a solid international reputation. Average main course $20.
Phone: (01) 4441496
Address: Cantaurias 175, Miraflores

Malabar. Excellent creative cuisine. Local and international food. Astrid y Gaston used to be my favorite restaurant until I visited this one. The chef and owner is truly talented and my guess is that this restaurant will be officially recognized as the best in Peru in the near future. Average main course $20.
Phone: (01)4405200, (01). 440 5300
Address: Camino Real. 101 , San Isidro

Casa Hacienda Moreyra. Hacienda style restaurant and probably one of the very few Lima restaurants where architecture meets excellent food. Local and international food. Average Main course $20.
Phone: (01) 4443979, (01)4444022
Address: Paz Soldán 290, San Isidro

El Tanta. Same owners as Astrid y Gaston. Excellent food and value (local and international). Average main course $13.
Phone: (01) 3723528
Address: Prolongación Primavera 692, Surco

La Mar. Same owners as Astrid y Gaston (Gaston Acurio is a local hero for entrepreneurship and the leading figure in Peru’s culinary big bang). Superb Seafood. Expect a 30-60 minute wait. Average main course $13.
Address: La Mar Av. 774, Miraflores

A life long aficionado of cooking in his home country, Mr. Schleien holds the cuisine of Lima in particularly high esteem. “It is Peru’s melting pot … People from all over Peru and all over the world have migrated to Lima and they have fused their cooking.”

Furthermore, he explained that the application of gourmet habits from the West to Peruvian cooking – such as technique, presentation and food hygiene – have helped the capital city to perfect its culinary offering.

And whether eating in a family ran huarique or in any of the city’s best restaurants, those who travel to Peru can rest assured that they are always likely to be enamored with Lima’s excellent cuisine.

Oktoberfest organisers meeting the party goers, Peru. Photograph, Matthew Barker 2009

Never mind that Oktoberfest Peru is many thousand miles from the real thing in Munich, this four day event held around the middle of October each year, is as authentic as it gets. Organized by a group of German expats, the event is estimated to draw around 20,000 revelers and has been supported by one of the biggest breweries in Peru, Cuzqueña, who even bring out a limited edition beer for the party.

Held in the grounds of a Lima stadium and covered by a beer tent the size of a warehouse, the familiar sight of endless rows of tables packed with thousands of party goers, the sounds of live Bavarian folk music and the repeated shouts of “eins, zwei, drei, PROST!”, (one, two, three, CHEERS!) are more than enough to evoke the real thing.

Tradition is the name of the game: traditional food (sausage and sauerkraut), traditional music (yodeling and Alpenhorn) and traditional standing-on-the-table-thigh-slapping dancing. A few devotees even make the effort to come in traditional dress, with Lederhosen and distinctive Dirndl dresses a frequent sight.

How To Catch Oktoberfest On Your Peru Vacations

An Alpenhorn display at Oktoberfest Lima, Peru. Photograph, Matthew Barker 2009

Oktoberfest Peru is held during the middle of the month, starting on Thursday and lasting until Sunday. If you’re a fan of beer and boisterous revelry and find yourself enjoying your Peru vacations at the right time, head over for one of the most unusual displays of cultural fusion in Lima.

Tickets cost 22 soles for general, single night entry, or 84 soles for two people, including two free beers and a plate of sausage and sauerkraut.

The event is staged at the Videna stadium in San Luis district. Expect to pay up to 20 soles for the taxi journey from Lima’s traveler center, Miraflores.

For further details, take a look at the official website: http://www.oktoberfest-peru.com.

The battle became a decisive moment in the War of the Pacific between Chile and the allied countries of Peru and Bolivia. By crippling the Peruvian ironclad the Huascar, Chilean naval supremacy was achieved, paving the way for a land attack and eventual victory.

The Battle of Angamos, Peru. Image: Creative Commons

But despite their strong sense of patriotism, Peruvians are unlikely to let history get in the way of a good holiday, and 8 October has become an excuse for a celebration throughout the country, with plenty of opportunities for visitors on Peru vacations to get involved.

A number of public events take place in Lima’s neighboring dockland city of Callao, including a ceremony at the main war memorial monument and displays by various naval units.

The events are focused around Plaza Grau, on La Punta, a peninsula that juts out into the Pacific Ocean which is home to a pleasant neighborhood of original architecture and beachfront shops, restaurants and attractive, well conserved parkland.

La Punta is home to a large Peruvian Naval School complex and is very close to Callao’s docklands, where much of Peru’s maritime history has been concentrated. The events start at around 10:00am and last for several hours.

Getting to Callao from the popular tourist district of Miraflores in Lima is best done by taxi, as the journey is a long one and can take up to an hour, passing through some fairly poor neighborhoods. Expect to pay between 20 and 30 soles for the taxi ride.

Meanwhile elsewhere in Lima and throughout Peru, families and friends take the chance to spend the day together at home, drinking their favorite brand of Peruvian beer and enjoying a typical meal of the famous Peruvian cuisine.

National holidays are a good time to explore Peruvian culture and history during your Peru travel experience, but to ensure you have the best time possible, try to remember the following key points:

- ATMs should still be functioning and street money changers will be working, but banks and other services will be closed for the day, so don’t get caught short without enough cash.

- Restaurants, hotels and public transport will be functioning as normal, but in busy areas (especially on La Punta) expect crowds, higher than normal prices, and a queue for even the smallest purchase.

- As with any crowded area in any city, exercise caution – keep an eye on your bags, don’t put your expensive cameras or cash on display and watch out for pickpockets.